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"Black Crack" (Name Unknown)

5.9, Trad, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Rich Aschert & Co.?
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > N Gym

Description

This line liebacks, jams, and stems up the obvious open-book. A set of 1980s-vintage ring bolts near the top of the cliff suggest the line was climbed on gear back in the day, but it has recently been retro-bolted by an unknown party.

Stem and lieback up smooth black rock to an easier section passing a large, detached flake. The feet get scarce passing an orange patch, then a brief juggy bulge leads to the route's highlight, a short section of splitter finger crack. Jam up the crack to deteriorating white stone and the original anchor. Continue a few more feet over a juggy roof to a new, stainless, springer anchor.

Location

~100 yards north of the the leaning dihedral, up on a hill, is a dark slab with three lines. This is the central line.

Protection

~7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, and a higher 2 bolt springer anchor. This could be lead on finger-hand-sized pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up the fun crack.
[Hide Photo] Starting up the fun crack.
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area.  Routes shown from L -> R:<br>
<br>
1. "40 Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown).<br>
2. "Black Crack" (Name Unknown).<br>
3. Teenage Prostitutes.
[Hide Photo] The original Teenage Prostitutes Area. Routes shown from L -> R: 1. "40 Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown). 2. "Black Crack" (Name Unknown). 3. Teenage Prostitutes.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] IMO, one of the better 9s at Shelf. Really liked this one! Apr 6, 2016