Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Jonathan Richards, Douglas Martin 1988
Page Views: 20,326 total · 178/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Feb 20, 2011 with improvements by Brian Snider and 2 others
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

UPDATED ON 09-25-17: This route is a great introduction to multipitch climbing. The rock is surprisingly solid and the climb is very well protected for a 4-pitch 5.4 (original rating) sport climb. Be careful not to dislodge small rocks on the ledges, which could bounce down the route. Some bolts are very closely spaced (especially pitch 3). There are several runouts on very easy terrain (5.0 or easier).

Pitch 1: 5.4 (crux at start), 120', 7 bolts. After clipping the first bolt, aim up and left to the arete to find the second bolt; it's runout but very easy, like 5.0, and you can sling knobs if you feel uncomfortable. Attach a long runner to bolt 2 or you'll feel rope drag higher up. Afterward the bolts are closely spaced. Belay at bolts at the edge of a huge ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.3, 95' (or 80'), 6 bolts. If you wish, you can shift the belay to another set of bolts 15' from the edge of the ledge, at the base of pitch 2. Follow four closely spaced bolts up a groove and then traverse up and left past two more bolts, across the arete, to a bolted anchor with a small belay stance on the face.

Pitch 3: 5.3, 85', 3 bolts. Climb up and then left toward the first bolt, which is a few feet to the left of a big hole, then up past two more bolts to a bolted anchor on a large ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.2, 90', 4 bolts. Climb up past a bolt and then surprisingly far to the left to bolt 2, then up past two more bolts to a bolted anchor on a large ledge just below the summit. From the anchor, scramble 10' up a class 4 bulge to the summit; to be safe you can tie off about 20' of rope to the anchor.

The quickest and safest descent is rappelling the route, but if climbers are beneath you be very careful throwing down the rope and try not to knock small rocks off the ledges. A 70 m rope will get you down in four rappels. A 60 m rope will leave you stranded 15' above the ground at the first bolt of pitch 1, which should have a quick link on it for a fifth rappel. Two ropes will get you down in three rappels (pitch 4, pitches 2-3, and pitch 1).

Location

The approach is 0.9 miles, takes about 35 minutes, and the trail is a bit tricky to follow and a bit steep in some places--when in doubt, look for sign posts. When you reach the shaded base of the Citadel keep going left uphill until you reach the foot of the northeast buttress, where there is a small clearing in the chaparral. You may come across the bolts above a cave for Power Tools (5.10) first, make sure to continue left to find the start of Costanoan.

Coordinates of the start: 36°29'34.80"N 121°11'58.51"W

Protection

Quick draws for up to seven bolts per pitch. There are rap rings at each belay anchor.

Photos