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Routes in The Citadel
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Anasazi T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Costanoan T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Drawn and Cornered T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying None, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Tools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hand Tools, Evolved S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nightman Cometh, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Power Corrupts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Power Tools S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.49274, -121.2004 |
| FA: | Jonathan Richards and Douglas Martin 7/1988 (bolts placed on rappel) |
| Page Views: | 7,800 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | David Delkeskamp on Oct 22, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
P1 there are three starts: farthest left is the 5.9 crack (trad gear), then the 10b bolted variation called Hand Tools. The furthest right variation is the 5.12a Power Corrupts starts up the line of bolts to the left of the small tree.
The crack was dirty, mossy, traversy, and pretty dang fun. I used single length slings on bolts one and two and didn't get much drag at all. At the anchor atop pitch one I pulled the rope through all of the gear then lowered it back down, making it a safer follow.
P2 head up and right through putting green-like terrain to some (whoooo-hooo) cleaner stone. You can place some gear before the first bolt (~30 ft up to the right).
P3 and P4 are pretty much clean killer bee sport climbing with an emphasis on stemming. Less pumpy than it's neighbor "Mission Impossible". The bolt location seems right on; bolts at all cruxy bits. Young guide calls it 5.10d, so go send it and start feeling good about yourself again.
P5 5.2 scramble with the possibility of slinging a rock and getting some small cams in. Above the P5 anchor there is another bolt and rap ring (another ~40ft up the ramp to the right).
Final notes: Beware of raptor closures (Citadel formation is open in the fall) and this climb faces north so it is shady most, if not all of the day!
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