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Routes in The Citadel
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Anasazi T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Costanoan T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Drawn and Cornered T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying None, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Tools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hand Tools, Evolved S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nightman Cometh, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Power Corrupts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Power Tools S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.49274, -121.2004 |
| FA: | Brad Young, Jennifer Wang, Dave Harden, Bob Walton, Bart O’Brien; May 2021 |
| Page Views: | 1,831 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan T on Dec 18, 2022 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Great addition to the Citadel, a fun level up from its neighbor, Costanoan.
Brad Young's description from the Mudn'Crud website:
Pitch One, 5.6 (115 feet): The groove/crack is 65 feet high; climb in it, to its right, then in it again. Protection consists of three bolts, slung knobs and gear (1½ to four inches and, optionally, one each one and five inch). Continue up a blunt buttress past four more bolts to a three-bolt anchor (seven lead bolts total).
Pitch Two, 5.7 (85 feet): Climb the face above past 11 bolts. Finish at a three-bolt anchor below a headwall.
Pitch Three, 5.7 (95 feet): Two bolts protect the headwall. Two more bolts protect low angle climbing to a fifth bolt on a short section of steeper rock (the fifth bolt is 12 feet right from the top anchor of Costanoan’s third pitch). A sixth bolt protects the rest of the steep section. One more bolt and slung knobs protect easier climbing to a stance and a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch Four, 5.3 (55 feet): Climb a knobby face up and slightly right. Finish at a two-bolt anchor on top of The Citadel (this anchor is 10 feet west of Costanoan’s fourth pitch top anchor; yes it's only ten feet west but it is needed so that parties can rappel this route after doing it instead of rappelling Costanoan - that route already has massive and often simultaneous up and down traffic). Protection for this pitch consists of two bolts and slung knobs.
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