Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,002 total · 31/month
Shared By: Timothy Mark on Nov 21, 2010 with updates from Eric Chow
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

Description

An excellent route for beginners on toprope, or for beginning trad leaders. The first 20 feet are the hardest part. There is a microwave-sized loose block midway up the boulder that is a little sketchy to stand on.

Location

Left of the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof, this is the first (rightmost) crack.

Protection

Takes plenty of gear, standard (small) rack will work. Boulders at the top work for a toprope.

Photos

Agree that the crux is right off the ground through the bulge. However, I would suggest budding trad leaders start on A Flake Called Lee before leading this route. Aug 19, 2012
I second the recommendation that new trad leaders not start on this. Even though I have led this one a few times, the start is still very awkward for me. Maybe, as the name suggests, my tallness works against me here, but I have a tougher time on this start than I do anywhere on some of the 5.6-5.8 I have led out here.

A Flake Called Lee has a very heady move for a new leader as well. New leaders should start at Boy Scout Ledges instead where there are some nice 5.3 and 5.4 lines, most of which are straightforward. Jun 26, 2016
Thad P
 
Thad P  
 
I found the beginning of the climb to be awkward. There are some decent hand holds; foot holds were not as good. There's a place for passive pro above the first couple of moves. Then you can sling a chockstone. Smooth 5.2 climbing above that. The name of this climb is apt. May 1, 2017
Ryan Kent
College Park, MD
 
Ryan Kent   College Park, MD
 
The start is only worth it on Trad, its slightly off-width and allows those with more experience to get used to placing gear in different positions.
Unless you have some BIG cams you wont be able to place pro until 15 ft up the wall. Jul 9, 2018