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All Locations > Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain > Middle Earth

For Short People Only

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British


 Avg: 2.2 from 24 votes

Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sadturn T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Talkin Bout Mountain Dews Baby T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,922 total · 30/month
Shared By: Timothy Mark on Nov 21, 2010 with updates from Eric Chow
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

Description

An excellent route for beginners on toprope, or for beginning trad leaders. The first 20 feet are the hardest part. There is a microwave-sized loose block midway up the boulder that is a little sketchy to stand on.

Location

Left of the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof, this is the first (rightmost) crack.

Protection

Takes plenty of gear, standard (small) rack will work. Boulders at the top work for a toprope.

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A Flake called Lee, For Short People Only, Space Dwarves
A Flake called Lee, For Short People Only, Spac…
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Sewn up with gear.
Sewn up with gear.
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4 Comments

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K Baumgartner
 
K Baumgartner  
 
Agree that the crux is right off the ground through the bulge. However, I would suggest budding trad leaders start on A Flake Called Lee before leading this route. Aug 19, 2012
Chalk in the Wind
Chalk in the Wind  
I second the recommendation that new trad leaders not start on this. Even though I have led this one a few times, the start is still very awkward for me. Maybe, as the name suggests, my tallness works against me here, but I have a tougher time on this start than I do anywhere on some of the 5.6-5.8 I have led out here.

A Flake Called Lee has a very heady move for a new leader as well. New leaders should start at Boy Scout Ledges instead where there are some nice 5.3 and 5.4 lines, most of which are straightforward. Jun 26, 2016
Thad P
 
Thad P  
 
I found the beginning of the climb to be awkward. There are some decent hand holds; foot holds were not as good. There's a place for passive pro above the first couple of moves. Then you can sling a chockstone. Smooth 5.2 climbing above that. The name of this climb is apt. May 1, 2017
Ryan Kent
College Park, MD
 
Ryan Kent   College Park, MD
 
The start is only worth it on Trad, its slightly off-width and allows those with more experience to get used to placing gear in different positions.
Unless you have some BIG cams you wont be able to place pro until 15 ft up the wall. Jul 9, 2018

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