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Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,518 total, 32/month
Shared By: Timothy Mark on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

The first 30 feet are classic. After you get past the flake, it becomes a 5.2 walk-up.

Location

From the huge Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof, look left. This is the second obvious crack, with a prominent flake about 20-30 feet up.

Protection

Good trad gear. New leaders may find the crux (pulling the flake) a bit daunting. Small cams will help.

Photos

t0dd
 
t0dd  
 
my first trad lead! I agree with the description; after pulling the flake it is a walk up. still, lots of fun and plenty of protection.

the comment about starting directly below the crack is helpful too. I initially tried the right to left traverse, but found it awkward. Apr 3, 2015
Phil Keffer
  5.6
Phil Keffer  
  5.6
This route starts directly below the crack and does not require the right to left traverse that many people do.

Fantastic route for a newer leader. Dec 5, 2014