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Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,232 total · 21/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on Aug 18, 2013
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

Description

The crux is protecting and pulling the roof. This is a three move high ball boulder problem, which if done on lead is uber heady because the pro below the roof that you can get isn't that good.

Would not recommend this route for newer trad leaders.

Location

To the right of Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof. Look for the weakness in the roof on the face.

Protection

Brassy nut below the roof, #1 above. Build an anchor at the top.

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