Elevation: 1,067 ft
GPS: 39.264, -77.395 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 143,214 total · 1,041/month
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009 with improvements by Jon H and 2 others
Admins: Frances Fierst
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

ACCESS NOTE: Sugarloaf Mountain is closed until further notice due to COVID 19 - See website for additional details/updates: http://sugarloafmd.com/

Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you'll have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.

As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.

As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.

Getting There

sugarloafmd.com/sl_directio…

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

95 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 8
Secondhand Smoke
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 21
Indiana Mark vs The Weather God
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 10
Reprise de La Bastille
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 27
For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 49
A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 60
Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Slow & Easy
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 21
The Prow Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Time of the Prophets
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
The Sherpa Connection
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 25
Bloodguard
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Go Ballistic
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Torqued Off
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Secondhand Smoke W View Parking Lot Bo…
 8
V2 5+ Boulder
Indiana Mark vs The Weather… Boy Scout Ledges
 21
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Reprise de La Bastille Lower Westview Slabs
 10
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
For Short People Only Middle Earth
 27
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Flake Called Lee Middle Earth
 49
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Seven Wishes Middle Earth
 60
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Slow & Easy Devil's Kitchen > Mottled Wall
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Prow Left Boy Scout Ledges
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Time of the Prophets Boy Scout Ledges
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Sherpa Connection White Rocks
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Quartz Wielder Middle Earth
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Butterfingers Middle Earth
 32
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Bloodguard Middle Earth
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Go Ballistic Middle Earth
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Torqued Off Upper W View / Sunset…
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf Mountain »

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