Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you will have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.

As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.

As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.

Getting There

sugarloafmd.com/sl_directio…

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

62 Total Climbs

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Location: Sugarloaf Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 4
Secondhand Smoke
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 19
Indiana Mark vs The Weather God
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 11
The Cave Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 8
Reprise de La Bastille
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 24
For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 42
A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 46
Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Slow & Easy
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 17
The Prow Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Time of the Prophets
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
The Sherpa Connection
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
For Tall Girls Only
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 21
Bloodguard
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Secondhand Smoke W View Parking Lot Bo…
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Indiana Mark vs The Weather… Boy Scout Ledges
 19
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
The Cave Route Middle Earth
 11
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Reprise de La Bastille Lower Westview Slabs
 8
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
For Short People Only Middle Earth
 24
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Flake Called Lee Middle Earth
 42
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Seven Wishes Middle Earth
 46
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Slow & Easy Devil's Kitchen > Mottled Wall
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Prow Left Boy Scout Ledges
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Time of the Prophets Boy Scout Ledges
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Sherpa Connection White Rocks
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Quartz Wielder Middle Earth
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Butterfingers Middle Earth
 23
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
For Tall Girls Only Boy Scout Ledges
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bloodguard Middle Earth
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf Mountain »

Weather Averages

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Photos

Alec Manougian
Morgantown, WV
Alec Manougian   Morgantown, WV
Anyone know if there are slings/nuts left at the top of the majority of the Trad routes? What are the expected rappel options here without leaving additional gear? Mar 15, 2016
Pretty much every route that I know of you can walk/scramble off, rappeling isn't necessary. Mar 16, 2016
Spencer C
Arlington
Spencer C   Arlington
Do any routes stay dry in the rain, typically? Apr 21, 2017
White Rocks probably dries the quickest after a rain, Devil's Kitchen may be the longest to dry. White Rocks is definitely the least climbed and has similar views as Boy Scout Ledges and others at the top of the mountain. Great rock too. There may be some trad areas at the right side, at least to practice leading. Top roping is straightforward and there are boulders at the base.

I am pretty sure White Rocks is not closed at sunset as it outside Sugarloaf proper along Mt Ephraim Rd where there are houses along the road.

If you are looking for a decent meal after climbing try the little diner back near I-270. Coming from Sugarloaf, cross under I-270 and go about a half mile to a T intersection, the diner is at the T slightly to the left. Good deli and Mexican food. There is also a Baskin Robbins just down the road.

On belay! Jun 30, 2018