Elevation: 1,067 ft
GPS: 39.26381, -77.3953
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 242,728 total · 1,438/month
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Frances Fierst
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

ACCESS NOTE: Sugarloaf Mountain is now open for climbing. See website for additional details/updates: http://sugarloafmd.com/

Sugarloaf hosts a number of climbs from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there are a few projects waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods, thus affording relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area tends to remain wet a day or two after a rain.

During the peak climbing season expect to share the area. In addition to other climbers, one can expect many hikers as well.

As for the climbing, most, if not all, can be top-roped using natural anchors. In some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. Some areas are great for trad junkies, like Boy Scout Ledges, which also offers the new leader good beginner lead climbs. As for aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the like is allowed. Clean aid only.

The rock here is "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope, and gear. It's called "highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to copperheads and timber rattlesnakes. Both species are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.

Getting There

sugarloafmd.com/sl_directio…

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

118 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 8
Plunder
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 18
Secondhand Smoke
Boulder
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 37
Cub Scout Cracks (a.k.a. cakewa…
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 30
Indiana Mark vs The Weather God
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 36
For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 63
A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 72
Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Slow & Easy
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 28
The Prow Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
I Am a Cam
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Time of the Prophets
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
The Sherpa Connection
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 35
Bloodguard
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Plunder W View Parking Lot Bo…
 8
V1 5 Boulder
Secondhand Smoke W View Parking Lot Bo…
 18
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Cub Scout Cracks (a.k.a. c… Boy Scout Ledges
 37
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
Indiana Mark vs The Weather… Boy Scout Ledges
 30
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
For Short People Only Middle Earth
 36
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Flake Called Lee Middle Earth
 63
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Seven Wishes Middle Earth
 72
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Slow & Easy Devil's Kitchen > Mottled Wall
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Prow Left Boy Scout Ledges
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
I Am a Cam Middle Earth
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Time of the Prophets Boy Scout Ledges
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Sherpa Connection White Rocks
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Quartz Wielder Middle Earth
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Butterfingers Middle Earth
 34
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Bloodguard Middle Earth
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf Mountain »

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