Elevation: 1,067 ft
GPS: 39.264, -77.395 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 180,054 total · 1,221/month
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Frances Fierst
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

ACCESS NOTE: Sugarloaf Mountain is now open for climbing. See website for additional details/updates: http://sugarloafmd.com/

Sugarloaf hosts a number of climbs from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there are a few projects waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods, thus affording relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area tends to remain wet a day or two after a rain.

During the peak climbing season expect to share the area. In addition to other climbers, one can expect many hikers as well.

As for the climbing, most, if not all, can be top-roped using natural anchors. In some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. Some areas are great for trad junkies, like Boy Scout Ledges, which also offers the new leader good beginner lead climbs. As for aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the like is allowed. Clean aid only.

The rock here is "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope, and gear. It's called "highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to copperheads and timber rattlesnakes. Both species are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.

Getting There

sugarloafmd.com/sl_directio…

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

115 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 12
Secondhand Smoke
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 27
Indiana Mark vs The Weather God
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 11
Reprise de La Bastille
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 29
For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 52
A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 63
Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Slow & Easy
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 23
The Prow Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Time of the Prophets
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
The Sherpa Connection
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 27
Bloodguard
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Go Ballistic
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Torqued Off
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Secondhand Smoke W View Parking Lot Bo…
 12
V2 5+ Boulder
Indiana Mark vs The Weather… Boy Scout Ledges
 27
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Reprise de La Bastille Lower Westview Slabs
 11
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
For Short People Only Middle Earth
 29
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Flake Called Lee Middle Earth
 52
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Seven Wishes Middle Earth
 63
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Slow & Easy Devil's Kitchen > Mottled Wall
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Prow Left Boy Scout Ledges
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Time of the Prophets Boy Scout Ledges
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Sherpa Connection White Rocks
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Quartz Wielder Middle Earth
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Butterfingers Middle Earth
 32
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Bloodguard Middle Earth
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Go Ballistic Middle Earth
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Torqued Off Upper W View / Sunset…
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf Mountain »

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