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Areas in Sugarloaf Mountain

Boy Scout Ledges 7 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Castle Rock 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Devil's Kitchen 5 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lower Westview Slabs 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Middle Earth 15 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Pillar, The 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Upper West View / Sunset Wall 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
West View Parking Lot Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
White Rocks 4 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 1,067 ft
GPS: 39.264, -77.395 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Sugarloaf is a host to a number of climbs. One can find anything from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there there are a few projects just waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods thus you can find relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area can tend to remain wet a day or two after a rain.
During the peak climbing season don't think you will have the area to yourself, there is a lot of climbing traffic along with hikers as well.

As for the climbing most, if not all can be top roped using trees and boulders for anchors, in some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. As well, some climbs can also be good for the trad junkies, Boy Scout Ledges offers the new leader some good beginner lead climbs. As for the aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the likes are allowed. Clean aid only.

As for the rock here its "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope and gear. It's called "Highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to Copperheads and Timber Rattlesnakes, of which both are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out http://www.sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Getting There

http://www.sugarloafmd.com/sl_directions.html

From Frederick Follow Route I-270 South to the Hyattstown exit, follow Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Washington Go North on Route I-270 to the Hyattstown exit, circle under I-270 and continue on Route 109 to Comus, then right on Comus Road to the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

From Bethesda/ Rockville Area Take Route 28 West of Rockville to Dickerson, then after passing under the railroad bridge, turn right on Mt. Ephraim Road and go 2.5 miles to Sugarloaf Mountain entrance.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
Secondhand Smoke
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Reprise de La Bastille
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slow & Easy
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
The Prow Left
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Time of the Prophets
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Sherpa Connection
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Roof
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For Tall Girls Only
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bloodguard
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Go Ballistic
Trad, TR
Secondhand Smoke W View Parking Lot Boulders V2 5+ Boulder
Reprise de La Bastille Lower Westview Slabs 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
For Short People Only Middle Earth 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Flake Called Lee Middle Earth 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Seven Wishes Middle Earth 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Slow & Easy Devil's Kitchen > Mottled Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Prow Left Boy Scout Ledges 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 TR
Time of the Prophets Boy Scout Ledges 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Sherpa Connection White Rocks 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Quartz Wielder Middle Earth 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Butterfingers Middle Earth 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Rhythm Roof Middle Earth 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
For Tall Girls Only Boy Scout Ledges 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bloodguard Middle Earth 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Go Ballistic Middle Earth 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf Mountain »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
Empty
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Spencer C
Arlington
Spencer C   Arlington
Do any routes stay dry in the rain, typically? Apr 21, 2017
Pretty much every route that I know of you can walk/scramble off, rappeling isn't necessary. Mar 16, 2016
Anyone know if there are slings/nuts left at the top of the majority of the Trad routes? What are the expected rappel options here without leaving additional gear? Mar 15, 2016

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