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Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 37 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,410 total, 38/month
Shared By: Victor K on Sep 25, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route

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Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details


Start at the center of a blank face, move up to a quartz vein then move left to a broken crack system. Hand traverse back right at the ledge, then move up through a fun series of small roofs.


This is the leftmost area of Middle Earth. Head right before concrete steps adjacent to the Pillar, then scramble up through a small boulder field to the base of the climb.


Top rope-able. The run out section is in the first 15' of the route.


Phil Keffer
Phil Keffer  
The route in the beta photo and description is a variation from the original route. The original route goes straight up the face and just "feels" right. The zig zag variation can be fun, but is dangerous on lead do to the landing area. The arete is off in both variations.

Once you figure out the first few face moves, you can reach up to the horizontal crack and find a great first piece placement of a .3 BD cam. Though a little high, this horizontal crack placement will have you feeling completely secure.

Have Fun! Dec 5, 2014
There is a very tricky but bomber horizontal BD #4 (purple) stopper placement about 12ft up that makes this a much safer lead. Apr 20, 2013