Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Middle Earth
|42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||127 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Weinmann on Sep 28, 2015|
Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
DescriptionStart to the right of the cave under a roof and a right leaning crack that goes out to the arête. Follow the crack and turn the corner onto the face. Move up to beneath a small overhang and work out left around the overhang. Cruise up easier rock to the top.
Often overlooked but a great route that protects fairly well, though the moves left around the overhang will have you above your gear a bit.
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