Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Middle Earth
|42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 30 ft|
|Page Views:||954 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||GonnaBe on Apr 4, 2012|
Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
DescriptionThis climb starts with a dynamic move off of one of two underclings to a wide horizontal pocket/rail. Traversing left on your hands your next move is to a fingerlock on the left. Using and hands or feet on the boulder in the down climb to climber's left brings this down to a 5.9+. Continue to the top.
LocationOn the green face around the corner from butterfingers and across the descent gully from the bloodguard face.
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