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Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 954 total, 14/month
Shared By: GonnaBe on Apr 4, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

This climb starts with a dynamic move off of one of two underclings to a wide horizontal pocket/rail. Traversing left on your hands your next move is to a fingerlock on the left. Using and hands or feet on the boulder in the down climb to climber's left brings this down to a 5.9+. Continue to the top.

Location

On the green face around the corner from butterfingers and across the descent gully from the bloodguard face.

Protection

Standard rack but be prepared to runout out the bottom or place gear blindly in the first horizontal rail.

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