PRINT: Rock Climb For Short People Only, Sugarloaf Mountain

For Short People Only

5.5, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 44 votes
FA: unknown
Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain > Middle Earth

Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.

Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.

Description

An excellent route for beginners on toprope, or for beginning trad leaders. The first 20 feet are the hardest part. There is a microwave-sized loose block midway up the boulder that is a little sketchy to stand on.

Location

Left of the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof, this is the first (rightmost) crack.

Protection

Takes plenty of gear, standard (small) rack will work. Boulders at the top work for a toprope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A Flake called Lee, For Short People Only, Space Dwarves

Starting up the climb. The leader may have ended on A Flake Called Lee up towards the top.

Sewn up with gear.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

K Baumgartner

Agree that the crux is right off the ground through the bulge. However, I would suggest budding trad leaders start on A Flake Called Lee before leading this route. Aug 19, 2012

Chalk in the Wind

I second the recommendation that new trad leaders not start on this. Even though I have led this one a few times, the start is still very awkward for me. Maybe, as the name suggests, my tallness works against me here, but I have a tougher time on this start than I do anywhere on some of the 5.6-5.8 I have led out here.

A Flake Called Lee has a very heady move for a new leader as well. New leaders should start at Boy Scout Ledges instead where there are some nice 5.3 and 5.4 lines, most of which are straightforward. Jun 26, 2016

Thad P

I found the beginning of the climb to be awkward. There are some decent hand holds; foot holds were not as good. There's a place for passive pro above the first couple of moves. Then you can sling a chockstone. Smooth 5.2 climbing above that. The name of this climb is apt. May 1, 2017

Ryan Kent
Seattle, WA

The start is only worth it on Trad, its slightly off-width and allows those with more experience to get used to placing gear in different positions.
Unless you have some BIG cams you wont be able to place pro until 15 ft up the wall. Jul 9, 2018