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Butterfingers Right [Suggest Change]
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Middle Earth
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42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cave Route, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In Your Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 208 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew G on Jul 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst |
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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall.
Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure
Details
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
Description [Suggest Change]
Start as for Butterfingers. Instead of taking the crack straight up after pulling the crux roof, work right on the slab and climb the thin dihedral through another roof. Easy finish to the top from there.
Adds another delicate/awkward crux to Butterfingers on thin holds and good smears.
Adds another delicate/awkward crux to Butterfingers on thin holds and good smears.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Mostly small gear (.1 - .5) with some bigger stuff for building an anchor at the top.
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