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Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,200 total, 30/month
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

climb up and over the overhang/roof in the chimney, and find your self on a large ledge (you can also bypass the overhang by working your way around to the far left then moving back above it). follow the notch and crack to the right of "rhythm roof". try not to go to far right, as it's an easy way to avoid the crux. on a nice weekend be prepared to stand in line to climb this gem.

Protection

A Std rack will work to lead this route. Gear or long slings to wrap the trees will work for your anchor.

Photos

Thad P
 
Thad P  
 
Great climb. As suggested, I placed a piece above the initial overhang before climbing it. It was an awkward move, but worth doing. Gear placement was great. A lot of constrictions for nuts. Sep 3, 2016
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Pulling that initial overhang sure felt a lot harder than 5.6 to me. Very fun climb though, nice and direct. Jul 1, 2016
Great climb, nice and easy for beginner trad. Tremendous variety for gear placement. May want to place a piece at the little roof/top-out at the very beginning if you're not feeling confident. Lots of sharp rock below. Mar 5, 2016
Route eats up passive pro. Overhang off the start provides a robust start. Great line. Aug 19, 2012