Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 30 ft|
|Page Views:||203 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Spencer Perry on Aug 7, 2016|
Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
DescriptionClimb up the ramp under the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof. Awkwardly stem and mantle your way up into the corner under the roof and delicately step right around the roof. Once on the face, the climbing gets substantially easier.
ProtectionI was able to place a #.75 and #2 C4 in the shallow flare in the bottom of the corner, before stepping of the ramp. Once up a little higher, I plugged a #.4 C4 in the small pod in the seam between the roof and the face. You may be able to fit an offset nut in the seam instead (which would probably be a better placement). Once around the corner there is more finger sized gear available if you want it.
Though you can place gear, the crux piece (#.4 C4) is in a very shallow pod. I would not want to take a serious fall on it because if it does not hold, you will hit the ramp.
Can top rope this using same anchor as In Your Head.
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