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Routes in Middle Earth
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42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bloodguard Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hyper-Gamma-Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lemon Merchant, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nemesis TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Never Talk to Strangers TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roofio T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sadturn T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Space Dwarves TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Talkin Bout Mountain Dews Baby T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Walk This Way TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,293 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | S Perry on Aug 7, 2016 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall.
Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure
Details
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
Description
Climb up the ramp under the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof. Awkwardly stem and mantle your way up into the corner under the roof and delicately step right around the roof. Once on the face, the climbing gets substantially easier.
Protection
I was able to place a #.75 and #2 C4 in the shallow flare in the bottom of the corner, before stepping of the ramp. Once up a little higher, I plugged a #.4 C4 in the small pod in the seam between the roof and the face. You may be able to fit an offset nut in the seam instead (which would probably be a better placement). Once around the corner there is more finger sized gear available if you want it.
Though you can place gear, the crux piece (#.4 C4) is in a very shallow pod. I would not want to take a serious fall on it because if it does not hold, you will hit the ramp.
Can top rope this using same anchor as In Your Head.
Though you can place gear, the crux piece (#.4 C4) is in a very shallow pod. I would not want to take a serious fall on it because if it does not hold, you will hit the ramp.
Can top rope this using same anchor as In Your Head.
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