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Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 203 total · 11/month
Shared By: Spencer Perry on Aug 7, 2016
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details


Climb up the ramp under the Hyper-Gamma-Spaces roof. Awkwardly stem and mantle your way up into the corner under the roof and delicately step right around the roof. Once on the face, the climbing gets substantially easier.


Under the massive roof to the right of For Short People Only.


I was able to place a #.75 and #2 C4 in the shallow flare in the bottom of the corner, before stepping of the ramp. Once up a little higher, I plugged a #.4 C4 in the small pod in the seam between the roof and the face. You may be able to fit an offset nut in the seam instead (which would probably be a better placement). Once around the corner there is more finger sized gear available if you want it.

Though you can place gear, the crux piece (#.4 C4) is in a very shallow pod. I would not want to take a serious fall on it because if it does not hold, you will hit the ramp.

Can top rope this using same anchor as In Your Head.


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Not sure if people lead this one often. The first time I tried it I placed a black tri-cam in the pod under the roof and fell. It did not hold (but the .75 and 2 C4s did) and I hit the ramp below. I was able to put my bodyweight on the .4 C4, but given the shallow and slimy nature of the pod, I would not want to take a real fall on it. Aug 7, 2016