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Elevation: 1,093 ft 333 m
GPS: 39.26161, -77.3946
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,452 total · 308/month
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S
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Warning Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.

Getting There Suggest change

Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Earth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 23
● The Cave Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 49
● For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 78
● A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 15
● Space Dwarves
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 87
● Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
● I Am a Cam
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
● In Your Head
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
● Sugarloaf Arete
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
● 42
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
● White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
● Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
● Rhythm Roof
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
● Black Planet
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 44
● Bloodguard
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Butterfingers Right
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Cave Route
 23
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
● For Short People Only
 49
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● A Flake Called Lee
 78
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Space Dwarves
 15
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR
● Seven Wishes
 87
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● I Am a Cam
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
● In Your Head
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Sugarloaf Arete
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● 42
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● White Quartz Wielder
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Butterfingers
 40
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Rhythm Roof
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
● Black Planet
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Bloodguard
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
● Butterfingers Right
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Middle Earth »

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Middle Earth, from the approach trail.
Middle Earth, from the approach trail.
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