Elevation: 1,093 ft
GPS: 39.262, -77.395 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,722 total · 277/month
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009 with improvements by Thaddeus Reid
Admins: Frances Fierst
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

Description

From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.

Getting There

Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Earth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 13
The Cave Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 26
For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 48
A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 57
Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
I Am a Cam
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
In Your Head
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Sugarloaf Arete
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
42
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Talkin Bout Mountain Dews Baby
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Rhythm Roof
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Black Planet
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 25
Bloodguard
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Go Ballistic
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Cave Route
 13
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
For Short People Only
 26
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Flake Called Lee
 48
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Seven Wishes
 57
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
I Am a Cam
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
In Your Head
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sugarloaf Arete
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
42
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Quartz Wielder
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Talkin Bout Mountain Dews Baby
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Butterfingers
 30
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Rhythm Roof
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Black Planet
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bloodguard
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Go Ballistic
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
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