All Locations > Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain

Middle Earth Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Middle Earth

L › R R › L A › Z

	42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Bloodguard Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hyper-Gamma-Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In Your Head T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lemon Merchant, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nemesis TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Never Talk to Strangers TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Roofio T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Sadturn T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Walk This Way TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,093 ft	333 m
GPS:	39.26161, -77.3946 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	60,668 total · 294/month
Shared By:	Frank T on Mar 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Frances Fierst, C S Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.

Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.

Description

From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.

Getting There

From the West View parking lot, walk to the green trail trailhead signs. Follow this well groomed, decent graded trail a few hundred yards. Middle Earth will be visible roughly forty-five degrees to your right in the woods.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 23 ● The Cave Route Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 51 ● For Short People Only Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 81 ● A Flake Called Lee Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 90 ● Seven Wishes Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 17 ● Space Dwarves TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 5 ● Bloodguard Roof Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 21 ● I Am a Cam TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 14 ● Sugarloaf Arete Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 19 ● In Your Head Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● 42 Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 30 ● White Quartz Wielder Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 42 ● Butterfingers Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 12 ● Black Planet Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 45 ● Bloodguard Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Butterfingers Right Trad, TR