Middle Earth Rock Climbing
Routes in Middle Earth
|42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cave Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|In Your Head T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|GPS:||39.262, -77.395 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Frank T on Mar 28, 2009|
DescriptionFrom the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.
Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season