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Elevation: 1,093 ft 333 m
GPS: 39.26161, -77.3946
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,222 total · 326/month
Shared By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S
Warning Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.

Getting There Suggest change

Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Earth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 23
The Cave Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 44
For Short People Only
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 71
A Flake Called Lee
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 83
Seven Wishes
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Space Dwarves
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
I Am a Cam
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
In Your Head
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Sugarloaf Arete
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
42
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
White Quartz Wielder
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Butterfingers
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Rhythm Roof
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Black Planet
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 39
Bloodguard
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Butterfingers Right
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Cave Route
 23
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
For Short People Only
 44
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Flake Called Lee
 71
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Seven Wishes
 83
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Space Dwarves
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
I Am a Cam
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
In Your Head
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sugarloaf Arete
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
42
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
White Quartz Wielder
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Butterfingers
 37
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Rhythm Roof
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Black Planet
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bloodguard
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Butterfingers Right
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Middle Earth »

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