The Cave Route [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 55 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,288 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||A. Lombardi on Feb 10, 2010|
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details
This area is a nesting site for ravens. The landowners ask that climbers avoid the climbs/areas where ravens are nesting. The nesting period generally lasts from mid May to late June/early July. During this time, observe any closure signs.
Description [Suggest Change]
The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch.
Location [Suggest Change]
Sugarloaf Mt, Middle Earth area, directly to the right of the 5.6 Seven Wishes.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Not much gear required at all. Great tree trunk anchor at the top of the cave. Thats it!