For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Earth

42 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Black Planet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodguard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Butterfingers T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butterfingers Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cave Route, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Cording T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
For Short People Only T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Ballistic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
I Am a Cam TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In Your Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rhythm Roof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Wishes T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Warrior T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Dwarves TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 55 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,288 total · 22/month
Shared By: A. Lombardi on Feb 10, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch.

Location [Suggest Change]

Sugarloaf Mt, Middle Earth area, directly to the right of the 5.6 Seven Wishes.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Not much gear required at all. Great tree trunk anchor at the top of the cave. Thats it!

Photos

DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
No need to rope up - just squirm and squeeze your way up the cave! Apr 22, 2013
Bob Ewing
Arlington
 
Bob Ewing   Arlington
 
I like this climb, though my partner today hated it. There's a couple spots to place pro, including a nice #3 cam towards the beginning. After about 15 feet in you don't really need pro because it's so tight. And it does get tight! Nov 24, 2013
Shop tech
Lakewood, CO
  5.0 PG13
Shop tech   Lakewood, CO
  5.0 PG13
Not two pitches.... not even one. Lose the rope and the harness, it get's tight. Jul 20, 2014
snyoon
 
snyoon  
 
Definitely a unique climb! I placed a couple of smaller cams and then set up an anchor at the very top (12 feet above the tree). It created a lot of rope drag (not really recommended). Aug 6, 2015

More About The Cave Route

Printer-Friendly