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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess

Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Edgehogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farewell Horizontal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Swallow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Clark Jacobs, 1992
Page Views: 602 total, 7/month
Shared By: Murf on Sep 6, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Incision is a one pitch variation linking the first belay of Edgehogs to the second of Magical Mystery Tour. Start from the often crowded first belay of Edgehogs (now unfortunately marked as the first belay of Whodunit in the most recent guide). Clip the first bolt of Edgehogs and move left to a tiny "corner". Climb a few moves up the corner and clip the second bolt. This section is pretty intimidating, but helps to get your head, and more importantly your feet, in the game. From the second bolt continue to and over the first brow, clipping another bolt. Easier climbing past two more bolts brings you to the second and harder brow. The rock is scaly and lichenous, and tricky climbing leads up over the small roof to the routes namesake; a barely offset thin crack. The small edge on the crack allows you to clip a pin, and make difficult moves up to and past the last bolt as the climbing eases.

The climbing is continuous 5.11-/5.11 with good rests at all bolts. The hardest moves are getting to and past the pin. This is a good climb for the grade, and would benefit from some traffic.

To continue from the belay, one can climb up through 2 pins and a bolt. From there you can climb left on the Three Hour Tour or climb right and join with the second pitch of Edgehogs (this is actually the third pitch of Magical Mystery Tour).

Location

The Incision is located roughly between Whodunit and Sahara Terror.

NOTE: The topo on Page 59 of the Third Edition of the guide is incorrect. The area between the first and second brow is marked with a P and a X (pin and bolt respectively). This area has three bolts. Above the second brow has three X's (bolts). It actually has a pin and a bolt. It seems as if they have been switched.

Protection

This route needs nothing but quickdraws. The route used to start and continue to the top will dictate the rest of the rack.

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