Avg: 3.4 from 27 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches|
|FA:||P1 & 2: Bob Gaines and Clark Jacobs, 8/92. P3 & 4: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Bob Austin, 7/97, Complete route: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, 8/98|
|Page Views:||5,683 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Murf on Feb 24, 2006|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionP1: (5.10A) - Follow the corner left of Whodunit to a short crack with a pin and a bolt. Continue to bolted belay.
P2: (5.11-) - Move up and clip a bolt. Make a very tricky move (5.10+) to the right and up for the next bolt. The pin in the 2001 guide is missing, a small cam will fit. Continue up through 5 more bolts with a 5.11 move (never truly on the arete ). Move right toward the arete for another cruxy section over the roof to a 2 bolt belay in an alcove.
P3: (5.10) - Tricky 5.10 moves on a rounded arete past three bolts to another 2 bolt belay.
P4: (5.10-) - Up from the belay for a pin and/or a bolt. Touch Whodunit for a move or two while searching for the best move left onto the higher face. After the move left, you can either clip a bolt and loop left then back right(farther than seems prudent). The better way to is unlock the upward moves almost directly above the bolt. Continue through a corner to another two bolt belay.
P5/P6: I have never climbed P5 or P6. From the P4 belay, the moves up some roofs/cracks seem improbable. I have always continued onto Magical Mystery Tour, even when I knew I wasn't on route.
P7 (5.10): At the base of the upper headway,stem into a large corner. Clip a pin on the left and work your way to the left lip. The bolt is a bit farther left than one may think (I had already put some gear in when I discovered it at my waist). Jam through the roof high stepping left.