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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess

Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Edgehogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farewell Horizontal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Swallow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines and Charles Peterson, 1990
Page Views: 953 total · 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 7, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Tucked amongst a host of popular routes is this seldom done testpiece which deserves more traffic. Although listed as five pitches, and at the top possible to link into adjoining routes, most parties these days rap off after the end of the fourth pitch and call it good. The third pitch is exceptionally good and were it closer to the ground would almost certainly see the traffic it deserves.

P1) Climb up the center of the slab linking crack features with somewhat runout face climbing to a belay atop a ledge. (5.8 PG)

P2) Climb a crack then move up and left past a bolt to gain another crack/flake and another small ledge with a bush. (5.10b)

P3) Intricate climbing up a series of cracks/flakes and over a small roof/overlap culminating in a tricky leftwards traverse with the hardest moves just before the belay at a stance. Long slings are helpful on this wandering but excellent quality pitch (5.11c)

P4) A short entirely bolt protected pitch with the hardest moves coming before reaching a small belay ledge. (5.12a)

P5) Face climb up and then right to a weakness through the roof above and then challenging climbing up over another roof with a runout finish (5.10) to a stance with bolts. There is some loose rock on this pitch which should be trundled to make it safer. (5.11d R)

Unless continuing to the top via an adjoining route make three (3) rappels from the top of the 5th (or 4th) pitch using two (2) 60 meter ropes.

Location

Located on the narrow face between The Swallow and The Consolation.

Protection

bolts, gear to 2", slings

Photos

Bob Gaines
  5.12a R
Bob Gaines  
  5.12a R
The most difficult moves (on pitches 3,4,and, 5) are well protected by bolts. The runnout section at the top of pitch 5 is 5.9/10a R. A fall from these moves would be a long one. Dec 7, 2017
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This route was originally called "Rubber Soul", in keeping with the Beatles theme of the nearby "Magical Mystery Tour", but was later changed. Aug 7, 2013

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