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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess

Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Edgehogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farewell Horizontal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Swallow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Craig Fry, Dave Evans and Jim Angione, 1979
Page Views: 1,751 total, 12/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up The Consolation on moderate climbing, then exit right to a pleasant vertical crack. A 5.9+/5.10a exit move over an overhang takes you to easy ground and then a belay at a tree. On pitch 2 some steep, tricky face moves lead to a long, sustained thin crack (5.10a) which eventually merges with The Consolation.

Location

This is an excellent two pitch variation to the start of The Consolation.

Protection

Bring extra finger to thin hand size pieces.

Photos

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x15x15  
 
a 70 meter rope is quite handy for all the routes in this area. it makes the first pitch of Snakes... very fun. Aug 3, 2010
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10a
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10a
Good pitches, but haven't seen much traffic.
P1 starts out with an excellent tight-hands/hand crack (5.8) in a left-facing corner with good stances to place from. The corner then splits with a grungy upper corner leading to a roof and a promising looking lower corner that leads to a dead end. At the top of the nice hand crack, it seemed easiest to move left into the lower corner for 5 feet or so, then transition right into the upper corner. A little liebacking and jamming in the lichen filled corner leads to the well protected crux (10a) move over the roof. Easy scrambling 30 feet to the belay.
P2 takes the crack that starts about 10 feet above the ledge, not the wider, grungier looking crack to the right. Some balancy face moves, lead to some flaring jams that pull you over the bulge (10a) onto slabbier terrain where a shallow finger crack angles up and left to meet Consolation.

We felt the roof on P1 was more difficult than any climbing on P2, though P2 was more sustained. The climbing on both pitches was fun, but the quantity of lichen on hand and foot holds, as well as somewhat chossy crack in places detracted from the route. With more traffic, this could clean up into a better line, but I doubt it will ever get it. Aug 6, 2006