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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess

Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Edgehogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farewell Horizontal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
No Locals Allowed TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sting, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Swallow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Hour Tour T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, October 1999.
Page Views: 82 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jun 4, 2018
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route begins from the ledge at the top of the first pitch of Farewell Horizontal and climbs the steep flake system between The Sham and the Mummy Crack (pitch 2 of The Long Climb).


Begin just right of the Farewell Horizontal anchor and climb a short, right-curving flake up to a left-facing corner. Climb the corner past 2 bolts (5.11-), then where the corner peters out climb a blank face past 2 more bolts (5.11b/c) up to a stance. Clip another bolt, then  traverse left (5.10-) over to a crack, which is followed up to a 2-bolt anchor shared with The Sham.

Descent: 90-foot rap to the Farewell Horizontal anchor, then another 150-foot rap to the ground.


5 bolts, medium nuts and CDs to 3 inches.


- No Photos -
One piton the the start but good to back up with some small gear, interesting moves for the first three bolts, then a showstopper slab 11+, move right near the Mummy Crack to a good ledge then back left (bolt) across the face to a crack system with lots of loose blocks. Jul 21, 2018

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