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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess

Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Edgehogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farewell Horizontal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Swallow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Gary Hemming, Jerry Gallwas, Barbara Lilley, and G. Schlief, September 1952
Page Views: 3,154 total, 22/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route follows the first crack system to the right of the North Buttress, angling left after four or five pitches to the broken ledge system with two large trees on the North Buttress. From there, you can finish via either the North Buttress route or the Uneventful. A 150’ long 4th class pitch leads to a nice belay spot on a ledge. The second pitch is the crux, and the best pitch on the climb. It is well-protected, and involves underclinging right around a horn and then going over an overhang and up to a belay ledge. From the left end of this ledge, two pitches up a wide crack system (5.3 and 5.5) lead to the easy traverse that takes you left to the North Buttress/Uneventful routes.


standard rack
Did the direct 5.8 variation directly in the corner through the roof on P1, there's an interesting step out left and backwards to a pedestal, pretty fun. Sep 9, 2017
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
Me and partner experience is as follows:

P1: free soloed 4th class to a belay ( nice ledge right of the dihedral)20-30' below the roof.

P2: punch through weakness near right side of roof. Climb up to ledge and belay.

P3: move left to dihedral and move up on easy terrain to a ledge (100 feet) beneath steep terrain. recommend to belay here, even though only half rope length. A poor decision, I continued straight up steep and suspiciously loose terrain to the end of the rope and set a hanging belay mid pitch.

P4: climbed 20' up to the split in the Y-crack I think. Partner couldn't decide left or right. Partner went left then backed down and went right. Terrain above was heady, awkward, insecure and only moderate protection, steep and airy. This may be the area others have described as 5.8/9, and that some have retreated from. My P and I believe this was 5.7 climbing, but definitely sketchy. Partner continued up, eventually past a bush and slightly left to a ledge.

P5: climbed 30 feet on class 4 to position below the "J Tree" and joining The Uneventful.

P6: climb nice looking dihedral "5.0" (more like 5.5/6)
P7: run out 200 feet to the top Aug 7, 2016
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Got on this for the first time today. Route finding was casual, and typical for Tahquitz. This is a nice little route, and steep and sustained for the grade in a couple of places! Some tips:

For some reason, I felt like foreshortening was extra-pronounced on this route. Everywhere I expected to get to with our 60 got is about 40 feet or more shy of that spot. Maybe it was just in my head. Pay attention to how much rope you have left. We did some easy simul-climbing to get to good belays.

From the beginning of the route, the roof you're heading for on P2 is pretty obvious. Take a look at it (you can also see the "body swallowing crack" discussed above), and note that there's a steep-looking weakness on the right side of the roof. This is where you turn the roof. If you go all the way to the right where the roof ends, you'll be on Sahara Terror.

Above the roof, the route goes left and up a ramp then straight up into a wide crack/gully that goes on for quite a while. The "body-swallower." Ha! Climbing the steep, broken weakness in the roof on P2 is the first exciting part of the climb, this crack/gully is the second, and it's really cool. Much of the pitch is climbing on chockstones stuck in the gully. At the top of this crack system, just below a tree, there's an obvious "Y" with the left part of the Y being a well-defined crack system. After the chockstone section is a section of cracks, side-pulls, and other fun stuff, after which you take the crack that's the left part of the Y up and over. Cool! above that, you're just running up and left to get up on the North Buttress.

From the spot where you join the North Buttress Routes (below the "J-shaped tree") I guess there's a few options. The crack/corner that Vogel shows as 5.0 looks like it's about 5.9. I have no idea what it actually is, though, because we followed the obvious ledge below the J-shaped tree all the way left to where it peters out (almost a full pitch from the bigger tree below the J-tree) then continued up and left, along a finger traverse, and up over easy terrain to the spot where El Whampo ends, just above the saddle where the descent trail is.

All in all, another great route. I'm calling it 5.7 only because I wouldn't send a budding 5.6 leader up it. Pretty stout old-school Tahquitz 5.6. Jun 18, 2016
This is a decent climb and despite the name plus other comments, pretty straight forward.

At the "body swallower" crack the climber needs to go left. I saw the gear left behind at the top of that crack. After getting to the large ledge with the crooked tree the topos say to do a 5.7 traverse to the larger right facing corner. Don't do it! As the ledge peters out head up the crack system it puts you into and pick your adventure to the top. Jun 17, 2014
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Jonny d  
Began climbing this route last Saturday. Set up a belay about 40-50 feet above the first big ledge and ran straight up the crack. About 100 ft above the belay, I got into a body-swallowing crack that narrowed as it went up. There was a nice juggy crack on the left side of the body swallower, but I couldn't figure out how to get out of the crack. I tried to go right, but it was slab without much to smear. I tried to go left, grabbing a downward-facing horn and trying to move out onto the face. Took an ankle-toasting fall there onto a red flex-cam jammed into a little crack at the top of the body-swallower. None of those moves seemed anywhere near 5.6-- more like 5.8-5.9 (I'm competent 5.10d on top-rope, so I don't think I'm too far off base, here). Only thing I can think was that I was clearly off route. Can anyone tell me where I might have gone wrong? After my partner took a whipper just above that spot, we backed off (thanks to Bob and Jillian from Vegas for the use of their rope and anchor to get us down on a longer rappel than we otherwise might have been able to do). Jun 28, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
I found it ultra ironic that TimB's crazy epic was had on a climb called "the Error" Dec 19, 2008
Tim, sounds like you had a Tahquitz epic. For so-cal, such multi pitch commitments are rare, hence, the experience you had will certainly prepare you for other long climb specials in your future. Glad you made it out ok, and with a smile on my face, glad it wasn't me...Climb on! Jul 4, 2006
TimB   Corona,CA
I just did this route on 02-July-2006. We got caught in an afternoon thunderstorm that left us soaked to the bone, and all of the cracks were little rivers. I had never climbed wet stone before with wet hands and soaking wet shoes. It was pretty spooky. We were looking for the absolute fastest way out of there, and we got a little confused by the Vogel and Gaines "Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks" book, which I had with me. I was at the top of pitch 5, looking for a speedy exit. I pulled out the book, looked at the topo on page 53, and it shows a 5.0 pitch up and behind the L-shaped pine tree. It was NOT 5.0 ! especially with everything. Finally, after a couple of false starts (I went up 10 ft right, then up 50 ft left, and passed 2 sets of rap slings in 2 different areas ... indicates people bailed from were I was GOING). I got up to a right corner roof, all wet, still raining, and bailed, by CAREFULLY downclimbing back to the belay ledge at the pine trees. Pulling the book out AGAIN (it's still wet as I type this), I decided we HAD to go, and we had to go up above the L-shaped pine tree. About 45 feet up, the crack squeezes so you must exit it, fortunately there's some nice hands and feet when you get out (if you're DRY !), and below the obvious roof, there's a piton, good shape, and a happy clip if you ask me. Getting over the roof involves some sure footedness, grab the ridge horn on the right, and shimmy up to get your foot on that horn. Once done, you're as good as out. Whew ! To get to the belay spot, put a long sling around the corner to eliminate drag. Your partner will nt be able to hear you, so make sure your non-verbal communication is set straight. From there, P7 is more like a 5.2-5.3 (not 5.0 like the book). Also, we combined P4 and P5, and with a 60m rope, we were about 8 feet short, so we did an 8-ft simul climb. Jul 4, 2006