Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins and Don Wilson, 1952
Page Views: 37,895 total · 199/month
Shared By: Ben Crowell on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

In the Northwest Recess, immediately to the left of the Maiden Buttress, is a prominent rock formation like a giant flat-roofed dormer window. The Long Climb follows first one and then the other of a pair of cracks on the bottom right side of this tower, where it merges into the Maiden Buttress. After gaining the roof of the tower via a spectacularly exposed overhang, the climb continues up four more pitches of mostly easier climbing, with one short crux. The first two pitches are very physical.
The 1952 FA of The Long Climb, by Royal Robbins and Don Wilson, started in the right-hand crack and then moved over to the left-hand one, but these days almost everyone does the first pitch using the left-hand crack, which is part of The Wong Climb. Beware of loose rock on pitches 3, 5, and 6.
Pitch 1: If doing the original version of the climb, go up the wider crack on the right. 40 m, 5.8
Pitch 2: Climb The Mummy Crack, a strenuous off-width on the left. 40 m, 5.8
Pitch 3: Climb the right-hand crack system, which then merges with the other one into a single crack. When the crack disappears, head up and left to a belay ledge above a big dead tree. 40 m, 5.7
Pitch 4: Head back right over a blocky wall as early as possible (or 5.6R slab higher up). Belay at a tall pine tree on a ledge shared with White Maiden's Walkaway. Exiting on the Maiden is a good option for avoiding the loose rock on the higher pitches of The Long Climb. 20 m, 5.6
Pitches 5,6: Climb along the left edge of a triangular rock, 5.8 crux. Continue up and right through easier terrain to the top.

Location

Far right side of the Northwest Recess, next to the Maiden Buttress.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos