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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess

Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Edgehogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Farewell Horizontal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Swallow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches
FA: P. Gerhard and D. Ross, 1965
Page Views: 722 total, 8/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Jun 20, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A variation off The Swallow. If you don't want to get Swallowed whole by the wide crack then head left onto The Gulp. This crack is fairly steep and on the wide side but is no offwidth. This pitch has a great photo on The Swallow route info. It veers off left halfway between 1 and 2 on that photo (after a traverse left). The crack leans left a little in that photo.

Location

The line starts up The Swallow. At the base of the wide crack head up and left to a crack of reasonable width. We followed this until it joined Whodunnit not far above the chimney crux. A great way to pass somebody starting on Whodunnit. The Swallow begins up easy ground that gets progressively steeper between Whodunnit and Consolation.

Protection

Standard rack. The actual gulp pitch takes cams in the 3" range.

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
I linked this to the bolted belay that both Edgehogs and Magical Mystery Tour share. I attempted to finish on MMT but the 10a pitch as indicated in the book looked like a lichen filled shit show so I went right somewhere between that and Edgehogs at about 5.7, not on the topo in the Vogel book. Nov 12, 2014