Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches
FA: John Mendenhall and Chuck Wilts, May 1953 FFA Royal Robbins and TM Herbert, 1959
Page Views: 17,208 total · 77/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This is another excellent long crack route on the shadiest wall at Tahquitz. Route-finding is quite easy until the 4th pitch. Much of the climbing is hand-jamming. Pitch 2 (5.8) has an overhang with a few nice moves ending on a nice ledge. 

The crux third pitch has a 12 foot long, slightly overhanging twin-hand jam crack, and then a short overhang with a weird and difficult exit move. The perched loose rock begins after the exit moves on P3 so tread lightly. The third pitch ends on a sloping ledge to your right with a tree and rap tat.

  •  Going up straight is the The Consolation Direct (5.10a/b), go either right or left to join The Long Climb or Whodunit.

Protection Suggest change

The protection on this route is good - bring extra hand-sized pieces.

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