Let's Get Physical
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Alex Karr, Deb Orth, 1988 |
Page Views: | 3,605 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Nov 15, 2009 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
The name is appropriate! Up to the 2nd roof is probably 5.10ish. You'll find you don't need that much gear as there's a secure pod in the vertical crack above the 1st roof. When you reach the 2nd roof, get up into the ceiling and place your #3 deep so it's out of the way for the lip moves. Continue traversing aiming for your last hand holds right at the base of the lip. From here, invert, throw your leg over your head, and find some crimps inside the right wall of the wide crack to help you do a sit up. Once you figure out how to get vertical again, the climb eases up. (Be careful not to place pro in the wide section as you pull the lip, it completely gets in the way of your legs). The #6 Camalot will protect the last wide moves once you're established.
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