Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alex Karr, Deb Orth, 1988
Page Views: 1,392 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 15, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

The name is appropriate! Up to the 2nd roof is probably 5.10ish. You'll find you don't need that much gear as there's a secure pod in the vertical crack above the 1st roof. When you reach the 2nd roof, get up into the ceiling and place your #3 deep so it's out of the way for the lip moves. Continue traversing aiming for your last hand holds right at the base of the lip. From here, invert, throw your leg over your head, and find some crimps inside the right wall of the wide crack to help you do a sit up. Once you figure out how to get vertical again, the climb eases up. (Be careful not to place pro in the wide section as you pull the lip, it completely gets in the way of your legs). The #6 Camalot will protect the last wide moves once you're established.

Location

The obvious wide crack system that goes through 2 roofs. Around the corner to the left of Underfling.

Protection

1" sized cam, only in the horizontal below the 1st roof will help to reduce drag from the first roof. #3/#4 camalot for the vertical corner. #3 camlalot deep in the 2nd roof. #6 Camalot after pulling the lip. #2 camalot for top. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
Wow, this one’s a stunner....shockingly clean / bullet-hard rock, all-day shade, a gleaming new bolted anchor (as of 5/18), and NO LINE at one of the busiest crags around.

After 50 ft of enjoyable 5.10 crack climbing, this route delivers a burly crux that stays on you long enough to draw a crowd of wide-eyed gawkers who can’t quite decide if you are a hero or an idiot for even trying this thing on TR (in your heart, you’ll know its both).

Seriously, though, this is one of the few places at the New where you can easily practice a cryptic series of really tough OW moves way off the deck. This is also a great option for taking an “active rest day” if your fingers need a break from all that hard crimping on the billions of other sport routes in the area.

Give this rig a chance and you will be rewarded with an epic battle you won’t soon forget!

P.S. Many thanks to local hardman pnelson for inspiring this post with some pretty entertaining footage (from 2:15-4:40) available here: vimeo.com/78285707 May 14, 2018