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Routes in Bridge Buttress

A Touch of Tango T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Angel's Arete T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Are You An Idiot? T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Are You Experienced? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterbeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chockstone T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dogfight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dresden Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Easily Flakey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Englishman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gag Reflex T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handsome and Well-Hung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horton's Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
International Incident T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Let the Wind Blow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Get Physical T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locked on Target S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Macho Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marionette T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayfly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mega Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Penalty Situation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pirouette S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Preferred Dynamics T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Raptured T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strategem, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch Armstrong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underfling T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whammy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Zag T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Steve Erskine, Rick Skidmore, Hobart Parks 1976 FFA Rich Pleiss, Ron Augustino 1983
Page Views: 8,218 total, 63/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Beautiful route.
This route climbs the amazing looking corner under the roof. Very tenuous moves stemming in the corner with small gear and finger locks/laybacks just out of reach. This route has a beginning, middle(crux) and end.

Crux of this climb is moving off a thin layback pinching a high undercling and deadpointing up and left with no feet. Smearing high and bumping up and right to a pinch then leaving your now comfortable undercling to get a jug way up there. Throw in a hand-jam and remember to breathe before finishing the 5.8+ moves to the anchors.

Location

Obvious corner under huge roof at trailhead.

Protection

1-3 inchers in the bottom section to small cams (blue-yellow aliens) through the crux. The upper section takes green aliens and protects well.

Bolted anchor.

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