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Routes in Bridge Buttress

A Touch of Tango T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Angel's Arete T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Are You An Idiot? T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Are You Experienced? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterbeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chockstone T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dogfight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dresden Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Easily Flakey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Englishman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gag Reflex T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handsome and Well-Hung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horton's Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
International Incident T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Let the Wind Blow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Get Physical T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locked on Target S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Macho Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marionette T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayfly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mega Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Penalty Situation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pirouette S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Preferred Dynamics T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Raptured T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strategem, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch Armstrong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underfling T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whammy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Zag T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: FA on TR Cal Swoger, FA on lead...Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,469 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

1st 5.12 at the New.

You can start on the left edges or on the right, I've done the climb both ways, I think the left is easier for shorter folks and the right for taller folks.
The crux is working out the moves without sweating off, pulling a pulley or freezing to death.

There have been multiple holds that have broken off of this route and it's now a good bit harder than it was. Pretty chossy.

Location

Obvious thin crimpy face under west side of amphitheatre.

Protection

3 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

Jacob Sustrich
  5.12a
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.12a
All about body tension... all the holds are good enough, you've just gotta stay as tight as possible or you're off! Fun route, and can very easily be toproped if you climb the 10c next door Jun 23, 2017
Chaz-O
  5.12b
Chaz-O  
  5.12b
A proud classic. I agree with the similarity to Devil's Lake - slippery as quartzite. Unfortunately the grease factor has taken some quality away from this one. Absolutely superb movement, nonetheless. Aug 10, 2016
One of my first 5.12 ticks. The description is spot on. If you breathe wrong or sneeze you will fly off this thing in a heartbeat. Very tenuous but very enjoyable when it flows properly. May 8, 2012
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
This may be one of the 1st bolted routes in the New, did it back in the mid 1980's when there all most no sport routes, reminded me of Devils Lake WI, face climbing very thin, May 2, 2010