Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: FA - Pat Goodman & Nate Sydnor - Oct. 8, 2020
Page Views: 603 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Jul 28, 2021
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

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Description Suggest change

Every time I ask about a potential new route I think I might see, whether between the lines at a classic area or in some totally random zone, Pat knows what it is and has either thought better than to voyage up the slim pickins or got distracted by something incalculably better and never made it back. Apparently this route had been in the waiting room of his mind for quite some time. It's a genius linkup. 

We finished work on a fine-but-still-warm October day and wanted to get in some pitches. We warmed up while knocking down our classic six pack of Modelos in the bottle. I led Chockstone then Pat moved the rope over to Marionette. I guess that's when the light went off. By this time Mark and Lydia had shown up and and the typical sarcasm and banter started flowing like the beer. 

Pat shoed up and launched off with nary another thought once it occurred to him. Some hilarity ensued but I don't remember why. Of course he dispatched the thing on-sight and now I was bound to follow it. Yikes. I was tired and the move on Touch of Tango isn't that easy, especially after you unclip the bolt and there's a huge arc of rope going around the corner. I was reminded of the scene at the end of Indiana Jones and The Temple of Doom; "Hang on lady, we goin for a ride." 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPGxSotEa-c

It was almost that dramatic. ;) I mustered about all I had at the moment for that move. Luckily I didn't pitch. Another day at the crag, another amazing crew of people, and another new route that was essentially an afterthought and then, thirty minutes later, a reality. There aren't too many more new ones to put up at Bridge, and my gut tells me that this one might not get repeated that often. Still, it's a classy distraction and a worthy challenge for a 5.10 leader. It might just give you a little taste to get prepared for fucked up traverses on routes in the Black Canyon like The Scenic Cruise or, more aptly, Atlantis. 

Location Suggest change

Start on Chockstone and weave your way through Dresden and Touch of Tango, wrapping around the corner at the obvious horizontal that takes you to the top of Marionette. Prepare for rope drag. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard

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