Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: John Bercaw
Page Views: 1,119 total · 17/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start in the corner under the blunt prow just left of Jaws. Work the corner/crack system to its end and ready yourself for a sobering one-two punch crux section broken up by clipping the route's lone bolt. Once you've worked through the razor thin patina crux section, the climbing eases off tremendously. Get your 5.9 dance on up the arete until you reach the anchors. Look to your right and see the NRG Bridge in all its glory and bask in one of Bercaw's heady masterpieces.

From the location of the bolt (which is too far right causing rope drag issues) I believe that the FA was done by climbing the initial corner to about 10 feet and instead of following the crack up and left (which seems like the most logical way to me and best protected way as well), he stepped right and moved up the delicate slab until he was able to drill the bolt (or perhaps he pre-placed the bolt on rappel). This method would be "R" rated and although it maybe not as physically tough, it is definitely more insecure and much more dangerous.

One option, if climbing it my way, is to not clip the bolt at all and instead rely on your last piece of gear in the crack while pulling the crux moves. This is not dangerous, nor is it ridiculous.

If only that bolt was moved 3 feet to the left.

Location

Just left of Jaws and right of Tree Crack

Protection

Basic rack cams and nuts to #2. A #4 can be placed down low. One bolt at the crux. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Bennett Harris
Charlotte, NC
Bennett Harris   Charlotte, NC
Great route. Balancey moves down low lead to a great stance where adequate gear can be had. A rightward trending thin face crux deposits you at a good clipping stance on small but positive holds for the route's lone bolt. Pull one or two more powerful and technical moves to a good stance with more great gear. High step and grin your way to the top of a mega classic. Really nice flow. Sep 26, 2016