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Routes in Bridge Buttress

A Touch of Tango T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Angel's Arete T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Are You An Idiot? T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Are You Experienced? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterbeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chockstone T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dogfight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dresden Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Easily Flakey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Englishman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gag Reflex T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handsome and Well-Hung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horton's Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
International Incident T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Let the Wind Blow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Get Physical T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locked on Target S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Macho Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marionette T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayfly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mega Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Penalty Situation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pirouette S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Preferred Dynamics T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Raptured T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strategem, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch Armstrong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underfling T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whammy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Zag T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: John Bercaw
Page Views: 947 total, 18/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start in the corner under the blunt prow just left of Jaws. Work the corner/crack system to its end and ready yourself for a sobering one-two punch crux section broken up by clipping the route's lone bolt. Once you've worked through the razor thin patina crux section, the climbing eases off tremendously. Get your 5.9 dance on up the arete until you reach the anchors. Look to your right and see the NRG Bridge in all its glory and bask in one of Bercaw's heady masterpieces.

From the location of the bolt (which is too far right causing rope drag issues) I believe that the FA was done by climbing the initial corner to about 10 feet and instead of following the crack up and left (which seems like the most logical way to me and best protected way as well), he stepped right and moved up the delicate slab until he was able to drill the bolt (or perhaps he pre-placed the bolt on rappel). This method would be "R" rated and although it maybe not as physically tough, it is definitely more insecure and much more dangerous.

One option, if climbing it my way, is to not clip the bolt at all and instead rely on your last piece of gear in the crack while pulling the crux moves. This is not dangerous, nor is it ridiculous.

If only that bolt was moved 3 feet to the left.

Location

Just left of Jaws and right of Tree Crack

Protection

Basic rack cams and nuts to #2. A #4 can be placed down low. One bolt at the crux. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Bennett Harris
Charlotte, NC
Bennett Harris   Charlotte, NC
Great route. Balancey moves down low lead to a great stance where adequate gear can be had. A rightward trending thin face crux deposits you at a good clipping stance on small but positive holds for the route's lone bolt. Pull one or two more powerful and technical moves to a good stance with more great gear. High step and grin your way to the top of a mega classic. Really nice flow. Sep 26, 2016