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Are You An Idiot?
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in 2 Bridge Buttress
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A Touch of Tango T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Angel's Arete T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Are You An Idiot? T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Are You Experienced? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blunder and Frightening T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bridge At Bardo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Butterbeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chockstone T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dog Fight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dresden Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Easily Flakey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Englishman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gag Reflex T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Handsome and Well-Hung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Times T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Horton's Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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International Incident T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kerry Allen Memorial T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Labor Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Layback, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Let the Wind Blow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Let's Get Physical T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Locked on Target S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Macho Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marionetta T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Marionette T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mayfly, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mega Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Penalty Situation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pirouette S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Preferred Dynamics T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Raptured T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sock Puppet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spine Tingling Bliss T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Strategem, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch Armstrong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Team Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tree Route, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Underfling T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Way Back, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whammy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Zag T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Paul Nelson, Joe DeGaetano (headpoint style) 2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,609 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Mar 18, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This line is mentioned in the description for "Are You Experienced?" which is just to the right but I thought that it was enough of an independent line with a completely different crux that it deserves its own entry here.
It begins with the same start as "Are You Experienced," but you stay firmly left of the arete, aiming for a short but obvious crack. Fairly easy climbing to the end of the crack, where you can build a nest of small cams and stoppers before moving up and right into the crux.
The crux is very sequential crimps and slopy sidepulls, and the last few hard moves definitely have the potential for BIG whips; your belayer needs to be with it! A pop to a thank-god bucket ends the crux and puts you firmly into groundfall territory. Two more moves from here and you get a great nest of life-saving gear. From here, you're joined back up with "Are You Experienced?" for 40 feet of safe 5.9-10a arete and slab climbing to the top.
It begins with the same start as "Are You Experienced," but you stay firmly left of the arete, aiming for a short but obvious crack. Fairly easy climbing to the end of the crack, where you can build a nest of small cams and stoppers before moving up and right into the crux.
The crux is very sequential crimps and slopy sidepulls, and the last few hard moves definitely have the potential for BIG whips; your belayer needs to be with it! A pop to a thank-god bucket ends the crux and puts you firmly into groundfall territory. Two more moves from here and you get a great nest of life-saving gear. From here, you're joined back up with "Are You Experienced?" for 40 feet of safe 5.9-10a arete and slab climbing to the top.
Protection
Mostly finger-sized cams and stoppers. Definitely take extra .4 and .5 camalots for the life-nest after the crux.
Also, Joe DeGaetano, who first eyed this line, was able to stop in the middle of the crux moves, reach way over, and clip the lone bolt of "Are You Experienced?" with a three foot runner. This makes the climb much safer, but is very strenuous and can result in some bad rope drag.
Also, Joe DeGaetano, who first eyed this line, was able to stop in the middle of the crux moves, reach way over, and clip the lone bolt of "Are You Experienced?" with a three foot runner. This makes the climb much safer, but is very strenuous and can result in some bad rope drag.
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