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Routes in Bridge Buttress

A Touch of Tango T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Angel's Arete T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Are You An Idiot? T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Are You Experienced? T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterbeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chockstone T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dogfight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dresden Corner T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Easily Flakey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Englishman's Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gag Reflex T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handsome and Well-Hung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Times T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Horton's Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
International Incident T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Jaws T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Let the Wind Blow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Get Physical T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Locked on Target S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Macho Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marionette T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayfly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mega Magic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Penalty Situation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pirouette S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Preferred Dynamics T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Raptured T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strategem, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch Armstrong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Team Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree Route, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underfling T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whammy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Zag T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Nelson, Joe DeGaetano (headpoint style).
Page Views: 570 total, 12/month
Shared By: camhead on Mar 18, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This line is mentioned in the description for "Are You Experienced?"– which is just to the right– but I thought that it was enough of an independent line with a completely different crux that it deserves its own entry here.

It begins with the same start as "Are You Experienced," but you trend more to the left, aiming for a short but obvious crack about eight feet to the left of the arete. Fairly easy climbing to the end of the crack, where you can build a nest of small cams and stoppers before moving up and right into the crux.

The crux is very sequential crimps and slopy sidepulls, and the last few hard moves definitely have the potential for BIG whips; your belayer needs to be with it! A pop to a thank-god bucket ends the crux and puts you firmly into groundfall territory. Two more moves from here and you get a great nest of life-saving gear. From here, you're joined back up with "Are You Experienced?" for 40 feet of safe 5.9-10a arete and slab climbing to the top.

Location

Left of "Are You Experienced?" and right of "Tree Route."

Protection

Mostly finger-sized cams and stoppers. Definitely take extra .4 and .5 camalots for the life-nest after the crux.

Also, Joe DeGaetano, who first eyed this line, was able to stop in the middle of the crux moves, reach way over, and clip the lone bolt of "Are You Experienced?" with a three foot runner. This makes the climb much safer, but is very strenuous and can result in some bad rope drag.

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