Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andy Ross & Shingo Ohkawa (alt leads)
Page Views: 3,593 total · 36/month
Shared By: apross on Nov 4, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1. Climb the first 10ft of Valentine Crack then move right into V groove. Up this then right again past a bolt. Carry on up cracks to just below the top where instead of the wide gravel chimney, finish left and up the easy groove. 5.10 110ft

Pitch 2. Layback and undercling the right facing/curving corner. 5.10+ 70ft

Location

Starts as for Valentine Crack.
The rap off is a rope strecher with a 60m, watch for the ends of the rope.
Great belay ledge hang.

Protection

Pitch 1. Standard rack with extra small/med nuts
Pitch 2. Metolius red, yellow, small nuts/peenuts, blue, bolts.

Photos

Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10+
5.10e- May 1, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Bordering 10+/11- puts it anywhere from 10c to 11b. Make up your mind or go with 10e. Apr 22, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10+
Another great addition to the Dragon Arch area. The first pitch takes small gear and is funkness, but lots of fun.

The second pitch is a beautiful and consistent lieback funfest.

Bordering the 5.10+ / 5.11- grade (at least until it cleans up a bit more) Apr 22, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Pitch 2 was really fun. Unintentionally avoided first pitch by rappelling to the base of 2nd via Enter the Dragon's anchors. Bolt spacing was perfect and crux came inbetween bolts 2 and 3 around bulge. Much more fun than Split Fingers because of better pro and I could actually climb it. Mar 17, 2013
Gonna agree with Boissal about the first pitch. Gritty and groove-ish pro at the start. Actually, the whole crack is pretty much a groove as well as gritty, but every time you start thinking "I need a good placement!" a good placement that you can feel pretty good about shows up. Jun 15, 2011
Ari Menitove  
 
Outstanding route! Despite a little grit and awkwardness, the first pitch is really good. The second pitch is even better - kind of like Split Fingers (Beckeys Wall Area) with training wheels. Aug 19, 2010
grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
5.10e Nov 25, 2009
EAS Fett
  5.11a
EAS Fett  
  5.11a
Almost got the onsite on the first pitch, sweet moves and good exposure. Will be a lot better with more traffic. Nov 25, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
The first pitch is pretty stout, lots of insecure lieback moves on the gritty slab with few rest opportunities. Bring a healthy supply of small gear and strong language. Make sure you traverse left next to Valentine at the top or you'll kick large choss pieces down.
The second pitch is one of 3 candidates for greatest lieback crack in the Wasatch. Nov 20, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
awesome. thanks for the work! Nov 6, 2009

More About Gimme Danger

Printer-Friendly Guide