Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Kirsten Davis, Lori Ness, Bill Robins, 1987
Page Views: 1,186 total · 5/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 22, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


While standing at the base of Valentine Crack, look east and you will see a grey sling coming out of a left-facing flake. This is the route (about 50 feet right of Valentine Crack). It starts on a face to a short hollow-looking flake, up to a groove with a piton. From here the climbing picks up with a face move to the flake, place your red Metolius, and swing left past the second piton, continuing up the tricky to protect crack. Here we deviated from the guide and continued right under the roof to a belay stance 20 feet above the top of Lunar Tick. The book show it climbing just left of the roof, but there were no anchors and the other spot looked to be a better belay stance. This climb has a couple of noteworthy sequences, interspersed with either easy, gritty, or insecure climbing. All of the awkward side movements are where the excitement is.


There are 2 pitons on the route (book only shows one); however, the 2-bolt anchor either doesn't exist or is really good at hiding. Red metolius seemed nice for the flake just above the 1st piton. Otherwise standard rack would suffice with a couple of Brass Nuts.