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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Kirsten Davis, Lori Ness, Bill Robins, 1987
Page Views: 653 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 22, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

While standing at the base of Valentine Crack, look east and you will see a grey sling coming out of a left-facing flake. This is the route (about 50 feet right of Valentine Crack). It starts on a face to a short hollow-looking flake, up to a groove with a piton. From here the climbing picks up with a face move to the flake, place your red Metolius, and swing left past the second piton, continuing up the tricky to protect crack. Here we deviated from the guide and continued right under the roof to a belay stance 20 feet above the top of Lunar Tick. The book show it climbing just left of the roof, but there were no anchors and the other spot looked to be a better belay stance. This climb has a couple of noteworthy sequences, interspersed with either easy, gritty, or insecure climbing. All of the awkward side movements are where the excitement is.

Protection

There are 2 pitons on the route (book only shows one); however, the 2-bolt anchor either doesn't exist or is really good at hiding. Red metolius seemed nice for the flake just above the 1st piton. Otherwise standard rack would suffice with a couple of Brass Nuts.

Photos

I hadn't seen Lori Ness' name on a first ascent before, but I'm glad she was in on this one with poor old Bill.

So, the route description in this post is generally good, but there IS an anchor at the top of this route as shown in the book. This route doesn't get much travel, and when I did it last weekend I had to clean out the crack below one of the pins. The route goes through the triangular roof shown in the book (long slings required) and there's another pin at the base of a ledge right over the roof. This is where the route SHOULD end. I'd be happy to go back and place an anchor there. Instead the route continues beyond the ledge either up an overgrown gully, or around it on a 5.6 face, and there are two bolts behind some trees and bushes on the west-facing face (no chains, but there is a ring and a couple of 'biners on an assortment of tat I found lying around [see below]). The amount of tat and booty in that area was spectacular ! I didn't do a good job of keeping rope drag down at the roof, but it looks like at least three parties baled from different portions of that area. I picked up a usable cam and four bail 'biners - two I left at the anchors. All the while, my belayer was pelted with grit and dirt, once I got over the roof. BOTTOM LINE: if you like getting off the beaten path and getting a little messy, this route is for you, the pro is decent but will test your comfort zone, and the anchor needs to be moved down to over the roof where the climbing ends ! Sep 24, 2010