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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot and Bill Robins, 1985
Page Views: 1,003 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ben Ricketts on Jun 3, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route roughly follow the arete on the left side of the Dragon Arch wall. We did it in 3 pitches. There is a lot of bad rock with not fun climbing on this. However, mixed into the grass, choss, and kitty litter are a few sections of good rock and interesting moves. One of these sections with good rock as pro that would probably catch a lead fall, the other section has no pro.

P1: Follow the dirty gully up to flakes on the right side of the gully. Continue up the flakes to a small stance with a 2 pin anchor on the arete. The pins were ok. 5.8,70'.

P2: Undercling out the crack to the right past a pin. The crack quickly turns vertical. Follow it past another pin and around to the left side of the arete. Continue up the face on good, knobby rock with pro that will probably catch you. Aim for a small ledge in a chossy right facing corner made of stacked flakes and dirt. Follow the corner until you can stand on top of it. Stare at the short nicely featured face above with no pro. I climbed this face on the right side near the arete to a ledge with a large pine tree as an anchor. There is a crack/water groove to the left that did not look like it would take pro. 5.9+,150'

P3: We followed the wide crack with some fun climbing up to a ledge. Here my partner traversed way right across a bunch of rotten flakes to a 2 bolt anchor that I think is the top of Enter the Dragon. 5.8,60'

Two single rope raps brings you to the base of Valentines Crack. We did a short rap to the anchors for P1 of Enter the Dragon and then one long one to the ground.

Location

On the far left side of the Dragon Arch wall in the gully that separates the Dragon Arch wall and The Egg.

Protection

Bring small nuts and cams up to a 3" piece. I appreciated small BD C3's and brass offsets.

Photos

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John Steiger
  5.9 R
John Steiger  
  5.9 R
For the first pitch, I suspect it's better to do the chimney/flakes past the two belay pins and up the next 40 feet or so, past the next two pins, to a much better ledge with a tree (though using long runners throughout probably necessary). The two belay pins are dubious, but can be backed up if there's too much rope drag. Go to the top; fine adventure for the grit-in-the-eye climber. Mar 24, 2014