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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Bob Irine, Rick Reese, Ted Wilson, Feb. 14th, 1963, FFA: George Lowe, Rex Alldredge
Page Views: 1,786 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 22, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The main right-facing crack system about in the center of the Dragon Arch Buttress. Dragon Arch climbs are a bit gritty and this one is no exception. This climb starts relatively easy with a tough 5.8 move (protects with #2 Camalot perfectly), then progresses into a lengthy lie-back sequence. There were 2 additional pitons below the 5.8 crux. The belay station has shifted upwards by about 10-15 feet from the Ruckman guide, so bypass the three old pitons, and instead stop at the slung flake. The upper pitch is wide and hard to protect if you don't have the larger gear; however, this is where the climbing gets better. Wide crack on your left, bottomed seam to your right, gritty face underneath. Do you chicken-wing up, face climb, or come up with another way to climb this crack? Barring the gritty rock, this climb is good. If more people climbed it, it would vastly improve. hint hint. Cleaned up, this route would rate two stars.

Protection

Bring a standard rack, heavy on the large stuff. Cams seemed especially nice in a couple of locations, otherwise hexes, worked fine.
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
For the first belay bring a 4.5 or modern 5. Don't use that detached flake, it flexes under pressure. The 4.5 is a textbook placement to the left of it, and then I got a .75 equivalent and a blue metolius for a bomber gear anchor.

The second pitch is not an offwidth, and we didn't use anything bigger than a four but were comfortable with running it out a bit.

Despite loose and at time rotten rock I thought the movement on the route was incredibly fun. I loved the second pitch, and the liebacking on P1 was super fun as well.


There is no obvious descent, no bolted belays on route. I recommend bringing some extra cord, webbing, and a rap ring or two, or do what we did and scramble over and down to the Enter the Dragon anchors and make 2 raps with a 70m rope to the base. As a caution, you have to do some downclimbing to get to those anchors on really poor rock. We set up a belay off a horn and from above and then I belayed my partner from the anchor so at least he wouldn't take a ground fall if he slipped. Apr 3, 2017
thehackattacks
Park City, UT
 
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
 
UUUUUGH! SO Awesome! We love off-widths and this is one of our favorites to date. If you like the wide then rack up your big bros, grab your balls (or ovaries) and giddyup into this burly boy!! An LCC OW not to be missed- major adult content!!! BEWARE- that flake isn't slung anymore at the first belay so be prepared to build an anchor. Apr 30, 2015
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
although this climb is dirty it shouldn't be avoided. Dec 1, 2011
samg Gileadi  
5.8
With a name like "Valentine Crack" and the thought of easy access (5.8 easy!) may make Valentine Crack sound like something where you could just drink a few beers, ignore the initial looks of the thing and cruise it, closer inspection will reveal it to be scruffy, piss-sodden, and full of choss.

The first pitch turns out to be gritty laybacking, not the fun jamming you might hope for. The first belay is complete choss. There may be one fun or tricky move in the chimney, the rest is just kinda... And once you top out there is no quick exit.

My low opinion of the thing may have something to do with the state of the first belay (detached flake soggy with rat urine) causing me to scurry up the chimney without bothering to rack most of the gear from the first pitch, thus not placing much gear, only to find the top soaked with yet more rat urine. Damn! Probably the only route thus far that made me feel like vomiting after sending it- there is fun wide, and then there is Valentine Crack... Historical value- well, those guys all put up some kickass routes, this one? Hmmm.... an anti-classic.

The gear is good right above the first belay. Warm up on Dragon Arch... Nov 11, 2009
Stevie Nacho   Utah
This route is good. Nov 8, 2009
Glad to hear the belay is moved. led the second pitch as a fledgeling 5.6 leader, and running it out above 3 straight up in ancient blades for, a hanging belay, scared the hell out of me. Thought if I blew it I was gonna factor 2, and send us to the deck. YIKES! Needless to say I buried myself in the back of this chimney and groveled to the top. Standing on the top-out chockstone I vowed to never climb it again!! Probably much better now though, I was just crazy gripped! May 24, 2005