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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andy Ross & Gene Vallee (alt leads)
Page Views: 1,254 total, 16/month
Shared By: apross on Jun 19, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1. Climb the slab with nice chickenheads to a fixed nut/cam belay.60ft 5.10

Pitch 2. Here it joins Ralph, Herb etc for 20ft passing an awkward wide slot. Just past the slot is a right leaning corner. Step into this and undercling, jam, stem and layback your way to a bolt. Swing right and hand traverse a rail to reach the chimney. Climb the chimney untill you can step right on to a nice patina face. Clip a bolt and romp up to the anchor. 100ft 5.11

Location

Starts 30ft right of Valentine Crack/Gimme Danger and just left of Ralph,Herb etc.
Rap to the Lunar Tick anchor and then ground.
You can lower to the Lunar Tick anchor if you do it in 2 pitches. Makes for a good view to watch your second on the last pitch.

Protection

Pitch 1. Bolts
Pitch 2. Nice to have a 5" cam for the 5.8 awkward slot off the belay but not super cruical.
Then 1/2" to 3" cams. Wire set, peenuts and lots of long slings.
NOTE. Make sure you save some long slings for any gear placed in chimney. It will help on rope drag for the final upper face.

Photos

JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
Second pitch is 4 star Dec 29, 2015
Drew_n Nichols
Park City, UT
Drew_n Nichols   Park City, UT
Hey all, in a PBR induced stupor we might have left a #3 and .4 camalot at the base of Last Shout (5/04). Anyone out there see them and be willing to return lost booty?

Cheers, ajn May 14, 2014
801maxwell
SLC
  5.11b/c
801maxwell   SLC
  5.11b/c
This climb is RAD! Got on it by accident the first time and was stoked to repeat. Definitely a super classic LCC 11 and a must do. Such a huge variety of moves that keeps your attention the whole way. May 4, 2014
Todd Green
SLC, UT
Todd Green   SLC, UT
As you saw @IME, I'm old and can't remember names of routes unless I track them here. MP.com needs to take a gander at RP.com where you can tag a ticked route as an onsight, solo, hang dog, tr, etc. Until then I just use the comments. If it doesn't say RP/OS, etc. it wasn't a send.

But I'll take you up on the belay and do the "money pitch" and give you the stars you deserve. :P (We only had the guide book and I thought I was doing Ralph, Herb, Bert and Ernie. Turns out we did half of Andy's route (3 stars) and a bushwack/rope drag scramble for the finish of RHBE (1 star, though the roof was fun) hence the 2 stars.) Fixed.

While I'm posting, I'll also agree that there is one move on the slab first pitch that is solid 10(+ depending on height) and the rest will keep your attention and is traditional LCC slabby goodness. Apr 16, 2014
apross
 
apross  
 
Hey Todd, you do have to climb both pitches to get the tick.
Give me a shout if you need a belay. Mar 14, 2014
John Steiger
  5.11b/c
John Steiger  
  5.11b/c
Congrats for unearthing another good route in the Dragon Arch area. We found the first pitch slab to have a very stiff move; I’ll vote 5.10c/d, and maybe harder if shorter that 6’. The crux section on the second pitch is classic LCC thrutching—lay away, fingers, stemming, overhanging fingers, cups, butt scumming, followed by a boulder-like hand shuffle. Pretty damn cool. Last Shout seems slightly harder and more sustained than the crux second pitch of Enter the Dragon, although it’s a different kind of climbing. We did both pitches in one long pitch; heinous drag, not recommended. Expect a tad bit of flakiness, but nothing to sweat over. Aug 23, 2011