Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andy Ross & Gene Vallee (alt leads)
Page Views: 1,426 total · 14/month
Shared By: apross on Jun 19, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1. Climb the slab with nice chickenheads to a fixed nut/cam belay.60ft 5.10

Pitch 2. Here it joins Ralph, Herb etc for 20ft passing an awkward wide slot. Just past the slot is a right leaning corner. Step into this and undercling, jam, stem and layback your way to a bolt. Swing right and hand traverse a rail to reach the chimney. Climb the chimney untill you can step right on to a nice patina face. Clip a bolt and romp up to the anchor. 100ft 5.11

Location

Starts 30ft right of Valentine Crack/Gimme Danger and just left of Ralph,Herb etc.
Rap to the Lunar Tick anchor and then ground.
You can lower to the Lunar Tick anchor if you do it in 2 pitches. Makes for a good view to watch your second on the last pitch.

Protection

Pitch 1. Bolts
Pitch 2. Nice to have a 5" cam for the 5.8 awkward slot off the belay but not super cruical.
Then 1/2" to 3" cams. Wire set, peenuts and lots of long slings.
NOTE. Make sure you save some long slings for any gear placed in chimney. It will help on rope drag for the final upper face.

Photos