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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Randy Kieliszewski and Jon Ray, January 1st, 1990
Page Views: 945 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 9, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Near the right side of the Dragon Arch buttress system is a scattered patina west face. There are 6 bolts that lead through progressively better rock. The start seems to use the flake system to the left until you can gain the gritty face. A few more moves leads to an exciting angling finger traverse that begins the great section of this climb. Positive edges, steep clean rock are all that you encounter the remainder of the route. Toss in the mantle onto the jumbo c'head, and you have the ingredients for a great climb. Just if the bottom section would clean up.

Protection

6 draws for the route and 2 for the anchors.

Photos

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zoso
 
zoso  
 
I thought this had very little grit--mostly clean. You can get on the bolt line right after clipping the 1st bolt and then bail left @ the top. Staying right @ the top doesn't make sense. Good route. Jun 15, 2010
tenesmus  
 
Mike, this one could use your loving more than "Two Heads" does. They all seemed fine and bomber. Just rusty. Jun 15, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10-
Meh. This would be an awesome line if it had a start and a finish. Unfortunately sticking to the bolt line is way contrived and plain hard (think hard 12 gritty slab). Getting out of the groove right at the first bolt and climbing edges to a brushy crack seemed like a good way to go, you can then traverse on the slab above the 2nd bolt and enjoy 4 bolts worth of crisp edges and slab moves. Unfortunately the finish forces you into another chossy crack unless you work really hard to stay on the face. Nov 20, 2009