Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Michael Durvidge & Pat Contor, 1989
Page Views: 1,585 total · 13/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Two Heads climbs the gritty slab a few feet left of Dragon Arch. Easy but hard-to-protect moves up a couple of overlaps lead to a left-trending seam protected by micros (nuts & cams) then up to a large roof that can be surmounted a few different (and possibly wild) ways.
The moves to the roof a ways above small pieces require a solid lead head - or possibly a second one.
The upper section is bolt-protected and features fun chickenhead pulling and slab moves.

A bit stout and heady for 5.9- but definitely worthy of a few stars...

Location

This route starts a few feet left of Dragon Arch and climbs up and around the large left-trending roof.

Protection

3 bolts, the first one well hidden on top of a huge chickenhead sitting at the lip of the roof (some webbing makes it more visible).
Micronuts and small cams for the start, nothing bigger than a #1 BD C3.
Long slings to tie-off knobs.

2 bolt anchor with fresh-looking webbing and quicklinks (shared with Dragon Arch). Rap off to save your rope for being gnawed on by gritty choss.

Photos