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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Michael Durvidge & Pat Contor, 1989
Page Views: 1,373 total, 14/month
Shared By: Boissal on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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18 Opinions

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Two Heads climbs the gritty slab a few feet left of Dragon Arch. Easy but hard-to-protect moves up a couple of overlaps lead to a left-trending seam protected by micros (nuts & cams) then up to a large roof that can be surmounted a few different (and possibly wild) ways.
The moves to the roof a ways above small pieces require a solid lead head - or possibly a second one.
The upper section is bolt-protected and features fun chickenhead pulling and slab moves.

A bit stout and heady for 5.9- but definitely worthy of a few stars...

Location

This route starts a few feet left of Dragon Arch and climbs up and around the large left-trending roof.

Protection

3 bolts, the first one well hidden on top of a huge chickenhead sitting at the lip of the roof (some webbing makes it more visible).
Micronuts and small cams for the start, nothing bigger than a #1 BD C3.
Long slings to tie-off knobs.

2 bolt anchor with fresh-looking webbing and quicklinks (shared with Dragon Arch). Rap off to save your rope for being gnawed on by gritty choss.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
I really like this one as a fun warmup. We kind of thought the sling is there to say, "hey, I know you're down below and wouldn't see this bolt without the sling." The button head looked fine to me and the line of the route pulls the biner off to the right once you clip the next bolt. Love those easy mantles. Jun 15, 2010
I will check out that bolt soon. Jun 6, 2010
Pete Spri  
 
I liked this route, but a little run-out/heady, so make sure you're up for 5.9.

As Ras said above, the first bolt is manky as all get out (think it's a button head with smc hanger), drilled on top of a chickenhead that cross-loads your biner. In addition to clipping this, there is another chickenhead off to the left that ties off with reasonable inspiration of confidence that it'll hold a fall. If both of these fail, though, you could ledge out. Jun 6, 2010
Fett
  5.9
Fett  
  5.9
I thought that the first bolt looked a little manky plus the sling on it. Clipping a biner to the bolt makes it cam bad against the the chicken head that it is drilled into. It is best to girth hitch the hanger with a sling or replace the old tat on it (I wouldn't trust my life on that tat). Thought it was kind of weird to see all the bolts but the first were replaced. Seems like it would be better to drill the bolt a little lower just above the roof instead of on top of the chicken head. All of these routes could use chains at the anchors instead of slings and rap rings. The rock is quality all the way up and the chicken head moves are cool! Really liked this area, good times. Nov 20, 2009