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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Robins & Thomas Koch, 1986
Page Views: 1,976 total, 20/month
Shared By: Boissal on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

The looks

A few feet of groove / hand crack climbing will get you to the feature that gave the route its name: a scary looking arch formed by two stacked slabs of granite. Either worm your way behind the arch, trying not to knock the precarious pile on your belayer, or step out and lieback the damn thing, doing your best to pry it off the buttress. Both choices will bring you above the arch into a beautiful but desperately short finger crack.
This turns out to be splitting a massive detached flake (there's a pattern here). Fear not, scamper up, clip a bolt and launch into the short face above, solving a chickenhead puzzle on the way. A few 5.easy slab moves will bring you to the anchors.

The second pitch follows the slab above the moves left into a corner following rotten crack. Stay away.

Classic in a weird way, well protected and way easier than the guidebook's 5.10 rating.

The place

This route sits on a short buttress on the lower part of the Dragon Arch area, east of the tall faces and mondo roofs. It can be reached from the Egg by following a loose gully that skirts low-angle slabs, heading up and east without requiring much scrambling.
Look for two detached stacked blocks about 20' up and a red patina face above.

The gear

1 bolt, gear from red C3 up to a #3 (BD cams), nuts. A #4 fits behind the arch if you feel like lugging it up there.
2 bolt anchor with fresh webbing and quicklinks shared with Two Heads Are Better Than One. Rap off to save your rope.


Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Always a blast! The anchor could use some fresh slingage. Mar 21, 2016
There's plenty of gear options in the crack proper. I wouldn't place anything in the "arch". Jun 15, 2010
Pete Spri  
Fun route!

Also; with a single 70m rope, you can rap from the anchors all the way to the most obvious belay ledge directly under this (the first one that you come to if approaching from the gully). Jun 6, 2010
samg Gileadi  
Three stars... a little bit of everything on that route. What's not to like? Nov 10, 2009
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
And here I was ready to give it 3 stars... Nov 10, 2009
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
I thought that this thing was a blast.

As in "almost worth the hike" quality! Nov 10, 2009