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Routes in Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gimme Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iridescence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Bill Robins & Thomas Koch, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 3,506 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Nov 9, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
The looks
A few feet of groove / hand crack climbing will get you to the feature that gave the route its name: a scary looking arch formed by two stacked slabs of granite. Either worm your way behind the arch, trying not to knock the precarious pile on your belayer, or step out and lieback the damn thing, doing your best to pry it off the buttress. Both choices will bring you above the arch into a beautiful but desperately short finger crack.
This turns out to be splitting a massive detached flake (there's a pattern here). Fear not, scamper up, clip a bolt and launch into the short face above, solving a chickenhead puzzle on the way. A few 5.easy slab moves will bring you to the anchors.
The second pitch follows the slab above the moves left into a corner following rotten crack. Stay away.
Classic in a weird way, well protected and way easier than the guidebook's 5.10 rating.
This turns out to be splitting a massive detached flake (there's a pattern here). Fear not, scamper up, clip a bolt and launch into the short face above, solving a chickenhead puzzle on the way. A few 5.easy slab moves will bring you to the anchors.
The second pitch follows the slab above the moves left into a corner following rotten crack. Stay away.
Classic in a weird way, well protected and way easier than the guidebook's 5.10 rating.
The place
This route sits on a short buttress on the lower part of the Dragon Arch area, east of the tall faces and mondo roofs. It can be reached from the Egg by following a loose gully that skirts low-angle slabs, heading up and east without requiring much scrambling.
Look for two detached stacked blocks about 20' up and a red patina face above.
Look for two detached stacked blocks about 20' up and a red patina face above.
The gear
1 bolt, gear from red C3 up to a #3 (BD cams), nuts. A #4 fits behind the arch if you feel like lugging it up there.
2 bolt anchor with fresh webbing and quicklinks shared with Two Heads Are Better Than One. Rap off to save your rope.
2 bolt anchor with fresh webbing and quicklinks shared with Two Heads Are Better Than One. Rap off to save your rope.
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