Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: 2nd Pitch: Unknown. FFA: Andrew Ross, Shingo Ohkawa, November 2009
Page Views: 9,888 total · 75/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Nov 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Enter the Dragon climbs the long and varied corner system to the left of Valentine Crack. To access the obvious, right-facing corner, climb any one of three approach pitches described below. Once beneath the steep, streaked green wall, layback and jam your way up the splitter, fist-to-hand crack to a roof. Undercling right along flakes to a small alcove--home to a decent-sized, rectangular detached block. Move right--past the block--and to the start of a steep ramp. Tiptoe past a slabby bulge** to a stance, then through a section of sustained, undercling-lieback moves to reach yet another bulge. Surmount the bulge, then commit to more underclings, past a sporty crux with a bolt, then to a two-bolt belay at a stance. Left of the belay, mantle chickenheads onto the slab above, then up and right past a short, slanting finger crack. Clip the first of four bolts, then launch into the steep-slab Kung-Fu above, past a scary--yet solid--flake, and to a wild finish on chickenheads. Run it out on an easy slab to the two-bolt anchor above. Brilliant! Who knew such line still existed in the canyon?

Location

To gain the large, right-facing corner below the roof, choose any one of three approach pitches:
Option 1--3rd class the first twenty feet of Valentine Crack, then traverse left along bushy slabs to reach the corner.
Option 2--Twenty-five feet downhill from the start of Valentine's is a shallow, left-facing corner with a crack. Climb the crack until it is possible to traverse left along a narrow ledge to a prominent chickenhead. Mantle the chickenhead, then scramble to the base of the corner.
Option 3--Climb left out the undercling flake of Gritish Deal, past two bolts, then onto a right-angling crack at 5.10. From the stance above the crack, climb easy terrain to the base of the large corner.

Protection

Bring a standard LCC rack, with doubles in fingers to hands. **Small DMM Peenuts, a 00 or 0 TCU--a hybrid works particularly well here--protects the first bulge. The second pitch is long and involved, so be sure to bring plenty of long slings to protect your second! For the final pitch, we took a blue and a yellow TCU, four quickdraws for the bolts, and--though useful, but not necessary--a hand-sized cam. Rappel the route; from the first bolted belay, a single 60m will reach easy ground in the gully right of the start to Gimme Danger.

Photos