Avg: 3.8 from 125 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||2nd Pitch: Unknown. FFA: Andrew Ross, Shingo Ohkawa, November 2009|
|Page Views:||11,518 total · 80/month|
|Shared By:||mountainsense on Nov 28, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Option 1--3rd class the first twenty feet of Valentine Crack, then traverse left along bushy slabs to reach the corner.
Option 2--Twenty-five feet downhill from the start of Valentine's is a shallow, left-facing corner with a crack. Climb the crack until it is possible to traverse left along a narrow ledge to a prominent chickenhead. Mantle the chickenhead, then scramble to the base of the corner.
Option 3--Climb left out the undercling flake of Gritish Deal, past two bolts, then onto a right-angling crack at 5.10. From the stance above the crack, climb easy terrain to the base of the large corner.