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Routes in Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gimme Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iridescence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Pat Contor, Lori Ness 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,310 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Nov 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A crack, a seam, slab and face? What more could you want? Toymaker's Dream is a variety show (aka mixed route) dipping into a small assortment of styles and techniques. Although very straightfoward, you'll find yourself doing a lot of second guessing on the difficult and technical, upper crux.
Climb a short, left traversing flake/ramp to the first of four bolts. Continue straight from here up a long, thin seam that splits the slab. Look here for a good rest or two on a few well deposited chicken heads. (The gear through this section is minimal, yet adequate) Reach and rest again at the down/left-leaning ramp with a long, sharp undercling. Protect in the overlap and switch to steep slab mode.
Leaving the ramp, force a bulge to the thin and intense face. Clip the second bolt and try to find a good stance before hitting the crux.
The final twelve feet of climbing passes two more bolts and involves a series of deliberate moves over small chickenheads. The exit has a great sequence with surprising results. Just shy of crazy!
Climb a short, left traversing flake/ramp to the first of four bolts. Continue straight from here up a long, thin seam that splits the slab. Look here for a good rest or two on a few well deposited chicken heads. (The gear through this section is minimal, yet adequate) Reach and rest again at the down/left-leaning ramp with a long, sharp undercling. Protect in the overlap and switch to steep slab mode.
Leaving the ramp, force a bulge to the thin and intense face. Clip the second bolt and try to find a good stance before hitting the crux.
The final twelve feet of climbing passes two more bolts and involves a series of deliberate moves over small chickenheads. The exit has a great sequence with surprising results. Just shy of crazy!
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