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Routes in Dragon Arch

Dragon Arch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme Danger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Shout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pat Contor, Lori Ness 1988
Page Views: 1,273 total · 13/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Nov 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A crack, a seam, slab and face? What more could you want? Toymaker's Dream is a variety show (aka mixed route) dipping into a small assortment of styles and techniques. Although very straightfoward, you'll find yourself doing a lot of second guessing on the difficult and technical, upper crux.

Climb a short, left traversing flake/ramp to the first of four bolts. Continue straight from here up a long, thin seam that splits the slab. Look here for a good rest or two on a few well deposited chicken heads. (The gear through this section is minimal, yet adequate) Reach and rest again at the down/left-leaning ramp with a long, sharp undercling. Protect in the overlap and switch to steep slab mode.
Leaving the ramp, force a bulge to the thin and intense face. Clip the second bolt and try to find a good stance before hitting the crux.
The final twelve feet of climbing passes two more bolts and involves a series of deliberate moves over small chickenheads. The exit has a great sequence with surprising results. Just shy of crazy!

Location

Seated on the far east end of the buttress, Toymakers Dream is just up the gully and begins at an obvious ramp at the bottom of a seam.

At the top of the ramp is the easy to spot first bolt.

Protection

Four bolts, cams to 3/4" inch, stoppers, and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Wow, this is a good one! Mar 20, 2016
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Pretty stout. The seam in the middle has protection, but it's spaced: perfect .5 camalot at the bottom, then micro nut(s) and tiny cam near the top. Those final slab moves are really tricky. Jun 2, 2014
sounds kind of orgasmic for a 2-star route Nov 27, 2009
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I hear the Salt Lake Tribune gave this route its full endorsment! Nov 26, 2009