Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Pat Contor, Lori Ness 1988
Page Views: 2,310 total · 14/month
Shared By: GRK on Nov 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


A crack, a seam, slab and face? What more could you want? Toymaker's Dream is a variety show (aka mixed route) dipping into a small assortment of styles and techniques. Although very straightfoward, you'll find yourself doing a lot of second guessing on the difficult and technical, upper crux.

Climb a short, left traversing flake/ramp to the first of four bolts. Continue straight from here up a long, thin seam that splits the slab. Look here for a good rest or two on a few well deposited chicken heads. (The gear through this section is minimal, yet adequate) Reach and rest again at the down/left-leaning ramp with a long, sharp undercling. Protect in the overlap and switch to steep slab mode.
Leaving the ramp, force a bulge to the thin and intense face. Clip the second bolt and try to find a good stance before hitting the crux.
The final twelve feet of climbing passes two more bolts and involves a series of deliberate moves over small chickenheads. The exit has a great sequence with surprising results. Just shy of crazy!


Seated on the far east end of the buttress, Toymakers Dream is just up the gully and begins at an obvious ramp at the bottom of a seam.

At the top of the ramp is the easy to spot first bolt.


Four bolts, cams to 3/4" inch, stoppers, and a two bolt anchor.