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Early Access
Routes in South Rim Routes
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Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Chimney Chunga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0-1 PG13 |
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Crystalvision T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Dark Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fade to Black T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Image of the Invisible T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Payment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Way Of The Ancients T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wonderland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 38.5811, -107.71539 |
| FA: | Tim Kuss & James Williamson |
| Page Views: | 2,190 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Happy Gilmore on Oct 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes!
Details
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Description
This is a compelling route judging from the topo.... 4 pitches of 5.11 in a row, mostly cracks, but a good facey pitch. You know, hey let's go do Flapjack. Now, just head down the Chillumstone (one 70m fine). Well, topos don't tell the whole story- crappy rock on p2 makes for a tedious pitch, it's hard right were the rock is bad and whoever put the route up drilled 1/4" threaded bolts. Anyway, it's an ok route, and the climbing would be really good if it was on splitter stone.
Location
Go down Chillumstone, do the rap (single 70m is perfect) and head across the ledge heading toward Blackjack, it has some 5th class moves that would be bad if anything happened, easy to rope up if desired. Start in a small, left-facing corner approximately 100m below and to the left of Blackjack. Look for some bolts about 70' up trending rightward. Top out on some ledgey terrain and either head up staying right on ridge (recommended and exposed) or venture into the oak and bushwhack up the gully to your right. Gandalf's Beard is on the wall across the gully.
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