Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,406 total · 20/month
Shared By: EricD on Apr 1, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


103 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Climb the crack up to a large ledge. Building an anchor is tough, but you can get waist-deep in a slot between the wall the crack is in and the main wall. There is a small tree that can be slung.

Traverse left from the top of the climb to a large chimney with a rap tree.

Location

This route follows the first crack to the left of Kemosabe and is just to the left of Dense Dunce and just to the right of Go Ahead and Jump.

Protection

medium gear for the climb, some ingenuity for the anchor

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.6
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.6
very nice route- more sustained than Go Ahead and Jump and more crack skills are required. quite good, though.

take some big cams (#3s and a #4 should do) and a long cordlette with some long slings for the anchor. About 15' left of the small tree at the top the crack pinches down for an anchor. A long cordlette extended with long slings reaches to the lip of the bulge, keeping rope drag down and allowing for a nice TR setup. May 9, 2010
Szu-Ping Lee
Las Vegas, NV
 
Szu-Ping Lee   Las Vegas, NV
 
trad lead, nice and fun.
Many good pro placements off the ground, only a thin crack near the top for protecting the crux move. Move to the right to find more holds at this point.

I used 3 small/medium nuts to build an okay anchor. If you want to build a better anchor, a 30 feet extension cord or a cordelette will be nice to have. May 5, 2013
Jordan Angus Gay
North Carolina
 
Jordan Angus Gay   North Carolina
 
Fun little climb with a couple of cool finger crack moves. I slung the small tree for backup and used a body belay in the wide crack up top. Nov 22, 2017