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Routes in Ragged Edges Area

Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diplomatic Immunity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lethal Weapon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ok Ok Ok T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan F - first pitch (5.9) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revoked T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mamusia, Van Betten, Nordblum, Harrison, Conz, Schoeder, Broussard 1983
Page Views: 3,245 total, 22/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Jul 19, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Past the left end of Ragged Edges Cliff is a shady hollow featuring the climb Tonto. To the left of Tonto is a large white arching flake. Climb the arĂȘte of this flake leading to a thin right-leaning crack on the outside of this arch. Continue up to a bolt on the face as the crack peters out. Climb to the left of the bolt for the 5.9 escape or to the right for the 5.10a finish. Belay at some horizontal cracks and rappel from a tree at the top of Tonto with one 60 meter rope.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot

Photos

Flavaflav
Las Vegas, NV
Flavaflav   Las Vegas, NV
Today, got up to the bolt following after the leader skirted far left to avoid what I thought is actually a missing hold. looks like a plate sheared off the size of a big pancake when you're climbing up the rail, up and right of the bolt. Seemed quite impossible for 10a....If anyone wants to repeat the route to be sure.... Jan 22, 2016
Rob Albert
  5.10a R
Rob Albert  
  5.10a R
Not sure how all of the comments say, "Don't Fall!" yet the climb does not get at least a PG-13 or R rating. You definitely do not want to fall, and the gear is not awesome - thank god for the bolt, but then the second has just as much chance of hitting the ledge, as the leader. Still, fun climb. Apr 29, 2015
wonderwoman  
 
Onsight. Itty bitty gear, but you can get it in there. Probably don't want to fall! The largest piece you will use is a #2 BD cam. Otherwise, tiny gear. Mar 27, 2015
catrina sisco
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
catrina sisco   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
I'm pretty confident when it comes to placing gear, and falling has never been an issue for me, I actually find it fun, until I lead this route. I almost want to call the gear fake due to the fact that your placing some of your smallest pieces you have in a shallow crack, in sandstone. I think that's what makes this route so fun though! Its one of those climbs you actually have to commit to, and pay attention to where you're placing your gear. A short route, with a high sketch factor. Be prepared to send it, because you wont want to fall. Feb 7, 2013
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Memorable climbing. I didn't want to fall above that over hang. Gear was somewhat sobering, but more than adequate. Dec 10, 2012
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Awesome lead with a bit off gippy feel as far as gear goes in the first 1/2. I loved this route. Apr 9, 2012
Drew Peterson
  5.10- PG13
Drew Peterson  
  5.10- PG13
An interesting route that was far from a casual romp up a 10a. The "Impending doom" comment was spot on. I'd recommend Chicken Eruptus over this route. Mar 6, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10a R
Don't forget the RP's and small nuts. Beautiful route with an overwhelming impending doom feeling to it. Jan 31, 2012
I thought this was PG-R. There's gear, but it has to be placed from tricky places and in some flaring spots. Some of it is pretend gear. Maybe a few offset nuts would be useful, but I didn't have any handy. I chose to go a bit left at the bolt and head back right. May 7, 2011
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
A couple of pieces of small pro can be placed at the first ledge up from the start and up the first half of the right leaning seam. Edgy climb with thru-stepping halfway up before the bolt. I went left at the bolt as this seemed easier. Lots of smearing and careful foot placement is necessary. Apr 12, 2009
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.9 R
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.9 R
There is far less pro on this one compared to either Chicken Eruptus or Sheep Trail. I took the right finish (supposedly the harder one) and thought it was pretty easy. You don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot; but bring a few micro cams or even ball nuts if you have them. Apr 1, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
This was very mentally challenging for me. I swear that I was going to fly off the edge. Thankfully I didn't.

This reminds me of Hairlip at Suicide. Feb 19, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
This was my first .10a lead and I have to say, I was really glad to see that brand new ASCA bolt up there upon my arrival. The route is tamer now with the good bolt, although the exposure and the slightly insecure moves to finish the route still make it exciting! Jul 31, 2005