Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Herbst
Page Views: 890 total · 10/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Oct 20, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Climb fun moves on really quality stone up a black streak. The bolt on this one has been broken off for a looong time-be glad you're not the one that snapped it. Above the bolt, nice climbing with a couple of reaches leads to steep jugs and an anchor crack that takes hand sized pieces.

Location

Starts just left of the boulder that borders the start of Go Ahead and Jump, in perfect black varnish with ASCA 1/2 in bolt 14' up.

Protection

Recently replaced snapped 1/4 in bolt, cams and wires. Anchor takes #1-2 camalots. Traverse right to rap slings off tree at top of Go Ahead and Jump.

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Royal
Santa Rosa, CA
  5.8+ PG13
Royal   Santa Rosa, CA
  5.8+ PG13
really good route on strong, high end varnish. The moves are reachy and thought provoking, I was pleasantly surprised. May 15, 2015
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7+ PG13
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7+ PG13
a fall just before the first pro option, after the bolt, would likely be a ground fall. Oct 31, 2016
Chris Edmonds
Seattle, WA
Chris Edmonds   Seattle, WA
I found the gear to be extremely poor on this route. Felt dangerous. Bring some small tips cams, maybe even offsets. Apr 16, 2018
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.7 PG13
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.7 PG13
Shallow brown Tri-cam above the bolt makes life a bit more reasonable. After that a #4 C4 way out left also helps. Nov 27, 2018