Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Harrison, Broussard, Van Betten, Mamusia - Spring 1983
Page Views: 6,518 total · 41/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This route begins 25 ft. (or so!) to the right of Ragged Edges, look for the first bolt (it's up there alittle bit!). Climb up to the first bolt, then follow the path of least resistance past at least one more bolt. You will use mostly wires and small cams for the climb but slightly bigger cams can be used at the anchor. I gave this route an "s" per the guide book, however I feel it to be well protected for the solid 5.10 leader. Eating at the all you can eat chicken Buffet prior to climbing this route is, apparently, not recomended!!

To descend either walk off to the west or rap Tonto with one rope (60 Meter).


Standard Rack


J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Correction!! The route start's alot closer than 25ft right of Ragged edges. Try 5-10ft right. May 3, 2005
Boulder, CO
  5.10d R
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.10d R
This may be the thinnest 10b I've ever climbed. Worlds harder than anything else at the grade here. Jul 3, 2006
Amen Jeremy! And I didn't even lead it, just followed on TR. But if you take a look at who put it up, well, can you say "old school". Jul 4, 2006
city, state
alpinglow   city, state
placed old gold #2 camalot before moving right to 1st bolt. seemed solid?

fun line, more than 3 stars, imho. Dec 30, 2006
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
I didn't think this was under rated. 10b. Big moves between great crimps. The gear is there, too, but often you are forced to do moves above your pro. Maybe scary, but I don't think it deserves an R rating. The Falcon guide gives it a PG rating. Feb 19, 2007
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b PG13
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b PG13
I think that many of the routes at Red Rocks are soft for the grade. This felt right on for 10b. Definitely exciting pulling some of those moves above gear and bolts, but definitely not harder than 10b. Nov 6, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
A refreshing dose of reality after climbing in the vicinity of the Gallery! Apr 2, 2008
Danny Inman
  5.10 PG13
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.10 PG13
This route has thoughtful moves that require good foot work, the gear placements, while adequate, do require some creativeness. A classic single pitch route. Apr 24, 2008
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.10b PG13
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.10b PG13
One of the best single pitch climbs I have ever done..(and i've done alot.) Never really felt runout, except for the topout but thats 5.5

The grade is right on at 10b. If low tens are you lead limit, I wouldnt reccomend this climb. The gear is all there but this is a climb in which you need to know what the hell your doing. Alot of little creative placments make this thing awsome!!! Apr 24, 2009
Santa Cruz, CA
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
I found this route to be quite nice, but felt it was definitely easier and less runout than Sheep Trail, fyi. May 4, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10 PG13
finally got around to this today- really fun route with solid gear where it counts- there's one or two tricky placements, but nothing a solid .10 leader should be concerned with. do this and then Sheep Trail for a full value day out at the crag.

also, a 70m rope makes this pretty casual as you can make the tree at the top of Ragged Edges for the anchor rather than the gulley just below. May 17, 2009
Jon Cheifitz
Superior, Co
Jon Cheifitz   Superior, Co
I would remove the R rating and even the PG13 for the confident 5.10 leader. The crux areas are protected well and the gear is all available when you need it. Don't let the rating scare you off, this is a great long pitch of climbing. Apr 4, 2011
Pitty   Marbach
I personally don't see a 5.10 for that route, 5.9 would be ok for me too. But I like that style of climbing. Where is the Runout to give that Route the R ?
But very nice and smooth...
good protection possible.

On the right side of chicken is a route "Aikido" or similar called, 5.11d or so, here the R is missing in the guide, although from 1st to second bolt a deep grounder is possible and the crux move is to reach the second bolt!
Scary and death-fall possible!!!!! Apr 27, 2011
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Concerning the "R". If you read the description the "R" rating is explained.
I don't personally think it deserves an "R", however the guidebook I had at the time gave it one (well an "S" same same). As I remember there are a couple of spots that are, maybe, a tad runout...so in an effort to give people as much info as possible, I gave it an "R" and then explained it. I think with all of that (and now this) the Description and ratings should remain as is.


josh May 2, 2011
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10 PG13
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10 PG13
Very bold lead. I can see giving this an R rating. There is no pro from the second bolt up to the rest ledge, which is between 12-15 feet. Personally I don't like taking 30 foot lead falls... The feet are very positive, though, and the moves make sense. Just very bold. Seemed like a sport climb with difficult trad pro.

This climb really doesn't have any harder moves than .10b, although there is a mono finger hold between the first and second bolt. I haven't had an occasion to use a mono hold as my primary hold on any climb, so that was "interesting". Especially when you start to feel the mono finger start to pump out. The boldness of the route and sustained factor definitely makes it seem harder than .10b. I'm really glad I didn't fall. Although I did take at the second bolt to rest before trying the 12-15 feet of unprotectable face to the mantle and rest ledge. My partner who followed said the route was outstanding, but I had a hard time enjoying it due to the boldness of the lead.

I took a double rack to 2". I can't see leading 200 feet with a single rack, as per the Handren guide book. Don't forget, you need to build a gear anchor at the top. I only had 4 cams and nuts to choose from. Ended up using a #00 master cam as part of the gear anchor. Mar 5, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10 PG13
@Nelson- I use a single rack on the route, you don't need any gear for the anchor (a 60m will reach the tree barely, but a 70m will comfortable). If you're onsighting, doubling up to 2" isn't a bad idea, but in reality, there's just not that much gear to be had on the pitch. What gear you get is quite good, and its all where it need to be.

If you dont want to do the upper portion of the route, you can traverse off right after the face climbing above the bolt- take a couple of big pieces and you can set a TR anchor for Akido Gun Boy (which is awesome). Mar 6, 2012
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
I toprope soloed this route 3 times yesterday and think it's a 1.5 star route. The first 30 feet are 5.6 or easier and the last 30+ feet are 5.6 or easier. There are only a few 5.10 moves and there are big crimps to rest on between the crux moves. 5.10b is about right for the crux moves (maybe easier if you're tall) but it's not sustained at all. Mar 20, 2013
Weston L
  5.10 R
  5.10 R
Dropped a line on this after work for a TR solo session. WOW. Awesome climbing and unlike a lot of the close-to-the-road cragging in the park, this is more the style of climbing you'll see in the canyons than in the Calico Hills. Engaging, technical climbing. Aug 17, 2013
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b PG13
Brought a single set of cams and nuts, placed where I needed to, ended up on top with half of my cams and nuts left. Don't see where you could ever put a double rack - but if you like the extra weight go for it.

Most people above are correct. PG13 at best in my opinion, all of the gear, when you get it, is really good. No moves harder than 5.10b and the rock quality is phenomenal. You get gear everywhere you need it.

I suppose it is bold, but I enjoy that so I found this climb quite nice. Jan 14, 2014
GhaMby Eagan
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
There is a pin half way between the two bolts, I supplemented with a gray Mastercam, but not necessary.

The only run out part on this route is the end, in 5.4 territory. I brought double and had a lot of gear left over. I could have easily belayed at the tree, but since I had so much gear I used the hand sized horizontal which helped reduce a lot of rope drag.

Good route, but definately does not deserve a "R" rating, barely deserves a PG-13.

If you climb outside regularly on 5.10 then this will just be a fun-albeit thoughtful- route. If you are coming straight from the gym and are used to clipping every 3-4 feet then this will feel a bit run out, but unless you suck at placing gear then no part of this route should be considered dangerous. Mar 26, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b PG13
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b PG13
Kevin Dahlstrom wrote:I toprope soloed this route 3 times yesterday and think it's a 1.5 star route...
I think you missed out on the primary reason this route is so rewarding and good...leading it with its creative and intermittent gear. The rock quality and moves are way good but the real charm in the route comes when you lead it. Jul 29, 2014
Brad G
Brad G  
Some of the best rock I've climbed in Red Rocks. That perfect dark varnish is amazing. Highly recommended... Mar 14, 2015
David Bruneau
St. John
David Bruneau   St. John
Jug haul with a few cryptic crimpy sequences in the middle - climbs like a gym route. The gear was beyond bomber and all the stances were comfortable. The hard moves all seem to have safe, clean falls. Definitely go for the lead! May 1, 2015
The grade seems good, but definitely not on the soft side. The gear is there and it's not that tricky really. I feel that Sensuous Mortician (much easier at soft 5.9) has trickier gear. Most runout I ever got was after the second bolt (fixed gear goes-1 bolt, fixed pin, 2nd bolt) and that was near the top of the climb when a 20 footer would be safe, I guess. Anyway, it's a great climb, don't get too in your head about it. Mar 19, 2016
Paul L
Portland, OR
  5.10a/b PG13
Paul L   Portland, OR
  5.10a/b PG13
Lead this yesterday. I'm a fairly new leader but found it to be awesome with good gear when I got it right. I'm 6'2" and found the crux section to have a lot of options for good holds but it was pretty technical. A little heady coming into the big horizontal before the first bolt, especially after kicking my gear out while moving up to that point.
I'd give it the PG13 for the chance of groundfall while traversing at the beginning even though the climbing is very easy (<5.6) and for the top which is easy but runout and you wouldn't want to make a misstep and slide across those nobs and nubbins. Oct 13, 2017
Simeon d
Phila, PA
Simeon d   Phila, PA
Great climb. I made mistake climbing with a small rack. As mentioned earlier, if your pushing the grade, you will want to save a #2 cam for a section before the first bolt. I did not have it and it was extremely scary going up and right without gear. If you have it, nothing on the climb is R. Nov 29, 2018