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Routes in Ragged Edges Area

Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diplomatic Immunity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lethal Weapon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ok Ok Ok T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan F - first pitch (5.9) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revoked T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Richard Harrison Robert Finlay 1985
Page Views: 658 total, 7/month
Shared By: meo on Aug 4, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

PG13/R
3 bolts in first 75'
Have to do the crux before clipping 3rd bolt and then thin moves to Jug. You could become a
second-hand moving counter-clock-wise on a cheap watch:)

Location

Willow Springs/Ragged Edges area
Start up big flake to first bolt 20ft
Rappel Vision Quest or Tonto or Walk off left

Protection

3 bolts, BD cams c2 through 1"
Build anchor above Vision Quest or top out

Photos

Bolts are all 100% on this one as of this week, all stainless ASCA gear.

Andy, those SMC hangers themselves were ok, but when you spy out old bolts, take a look at the size of the visible stud as well. The bolts we chopped out (first 2) were non-standard size (5/16?) that didn't fit the hole on the hanger(3/8). They were probably good for a few falls but rattly hangers are sketchball, corroded or not. When leveraged the wrong way, no amount of washers are going to keep the hanger from bending over like a sorority girl at a freshman mixer-got a pile of SMCs in the garage that are bent to hell from hand pressure using a hammer for leverage. I'll show you a few sometime.

Replaced the bolt on Bodacious as well-that top one was ROTTEN. Both routes are fine examples of the style of only bolting when absolutely necessaryproud, old-school climbing and no joke. Climb with caution. May 28, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
If Chicken Eruptus gets an "R" (which is not the case) rating then this deserves an "X." The movement is great but most of the holds on the route are definitely suspect. I made it up to the 3rd bolt but almost puked trying to clip it and so backed down to the 2nd and bailed.

The bolts are SMC but are in much better shape than some of the bolts I've seen around RR. The bolt to the left of me in the photo is definitely questionable. Overall, there is some good climbing to be had on this route but the possibility of a HUGE pendulum fall and sub-par rock keeps the masses away- myself included. Apr 27, 2012
Richard Harrison 10d+old sketch bolts+possibility of swinging, scraping, good sized fall=not 11a? Hair-splitting, amigo. The original version is Bodacious, which IS rated 11a, so guess 11b on that one and you're probably not far off. I'll take Mike's word on it. Jun 11, 2011
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
this is an established 5.10 rock climb in each guide book Oct 4, 2010