Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,794 total · 15/month
Shared By: EricD on Apr 1, 2009 with updates from Oliver
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start at an overhanging section using some nice face holds and hand jams. Climb the crack straight up to the large flat area with a slung tree to the right. Continue to the left to a large ledge (really just a scramble), or rap from the tree (this significantly shortens the route). The ledgy area is also the top of Revoked.

If you continue the climb from the ledge, scramble back to the slung tree and rap.

Keep in mind, the beginning moves are harder than 5.5.

Location

Left-side crack of the pillar that is to the right of Crooked Crack.

Protection

Medium gear for the route and large gear for anchor

Photos

Jared R
 
Jared R  
 
Not really that great of a route. Protects well. Can build a gear anchor to belay partner up at rappel bush. Jan 30, 2010
K Swissto
Denver, CO
  5.6
K Swissto   Denver, CO
  5.6
100% agree that beginning moves are not 5.5. It's in the 6-7 range, height dependent. Nov 1, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
I think it may have lost some face holds on the start, I don't see how a 5.5 leader would pull this. I just jammed the crack (great hands), but I lead overhanging hands cracks. Really boring climbing above. Rope stretch can be bad for your second with such a low roof. Mar 27, 2017
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.7
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.7
"Keep in mind, the beginning moves are harder than 5.5."

If the beginning moves are harder than 5.5, why did you rate it 5.5? The ankle injury potential there is significant--it's not like this is a part that can be ignored because a fall there would be okay. This might be a 5.5 in the northeast but it's definitely not a RR 5.5.

It's a pretty weird climb. I'd maybe recommend the beginning because it's a cool boulder problem, but the rest isn't that great. Apr 16, 2018