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Routes in Ragged Edges Area

Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diplomatic Immunity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lethal Weapon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ok Ok Ok T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan F - first pitch (5.9) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revoked T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,681 total · 29/month
Shared By: Marcy M on Apr 1, 2008 with updates from Oliver
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Nice crack going up a moderate angled wall. The crack trends right then straight up and then back left. Longer slings will help with rope drag.

Descent:

After topping out, scramble right and down to a small tree with webbing and rap ring. One single rope rap gets you down.
(note - From the base of the wall, this rap is above a pillar to the right of the route. The tree is visible from the ground.)
A alternate rap can be done from above the route Tonto.

Location

Left side of Ragged Edges area.

Protection

Small to medium gear (I think the largest we used was a #1 Camalot), a few longer slings to manage rope drag through the zig-zag portions.

Photos

Shawn Overstreet
Jackson, Wy
  5.6
Shawn Overstreet   Jackson, Wy
  5.6
Fun route! Excellent rock, good pro, and varied climbing. The new guide says there are anchors up top but I believe they have been chopped (There is a horizontal that you can build an anchor on a few feet from the top). There are several rap options to get down. Apr 18, 2008
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
Correct - there is no fixed anchor at the top of this climb. This climb is easy for the grade - easier than the 5.5 start of the climbs to the right. Walk right from the top to get to the Tonto Rappel. May 6, 2010
Ron Graham
  5.5
Ron Graham  
  5.5
This is a wonderful route for a new trad leader! The climbing is easy with lots of holds and the gear placement options are continuous from bottom to top. Oct 23, 2011
Jonathan Simonton
Chandler
 
Jonathan Simonton   Chandler
 
Good route for beginner, however I'm a new leader and i was bored on this route. Not a varied climb. Was kind of the same thing throughout. Mar 23, 2012
Note on the descent: As of May 2014, the "rappel anchor at the top of the wall" that is listed in the Handren guide (first edition) does not exist. There is also not a slung tree near the top of the pillar to the the right of the climb. To descend, walk over to the Tonto tree and rappel from there. A single 70 meter rope works for the rappel. May 11, 2014
Jim H
Pasadena, CA
Jim H   Pasadena, CA
Steve123 - I was there in Aug 2014 and the rappel anchors was in at the top of Revoked. There is very mild scrambling to get to it, but a clean, easy rapp. Nov 24, 2014
oskarski
las vegas
 
oskarski   las vegas
 
there's a nice new bolted anchor with chains as of august 2016 Aug 25, 2016
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.5
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.5
From the new rap anchor a single 70m will almost reach the start ledge, leaving a 1-2 foot downclimb. Oct 17, 2016
E Johnson
Boulder, CO
  5.5
E Johnson   Boulder, CO
  5.5
Easier than Tonto. A lot of fun. We rapped from a tree a route or two to climbers' right after a little down scramble. Nov 13, 2016
SP Boston
Watertown, MA
  5.5
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
  5.5
Very pleasant route. Just to be clear: the original instructions mention a 150 foot climb. The distance to the anchors is now exactly 117 feet (thus the 2 foot down climb if you rap using a 70m rope). Also, the scramble to climber's immediate right and down is easy *unless* there is water running in the groove, in which case it is a little spicy. The tree with rap rings at the top of the pillar are in good shape, but the tree is more of a giant bush, and the rap rings are not easily seen with the naked eye from above before the down scramble. Feb 22, 2017
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.5
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.5
Rapped with a 70M both ends on the ledge no down climbing needed. Mar 13, 2017
Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
5.6
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
5.6
Fun route with a few slab-like sections. Easy climbing. I even got a jam or two! An older couple told us to check out the waterfall nearby once we reached the top. To get there you scramble (class III-IV) to looker's right from the chains. Head east and south along a pretty obvious path until you reach the edge of the cliffs. Turn south and scramble on top of a nice flat spot that leads you to the waterfall. On 04/22/17 there was barely a trickle. At the right time of year I guess it would be cool. Apr 25, 2017
T Bloodstone
Minneapolis, MN
T Bloodstone   Minneapolis, MN
This route is perfect for a new trad leader learning to lead. Oct 14, 2017

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